Button holes

 

The buttonhole on the neck band and one at the bottom of the front  placket  should be cut horizontally for easy movement, a centimetre more for comfort. Rest should be cut vertically.

 

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Cuffs

 

The shape and number of  buttons can vary. But the fit should be such that a watch can be comfortably worn under the shirt fabric. Pleats on the cuffs should never be too deep. The cuff attachment should always look straight.

 

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Armhole

 

The armhole of ready-to-wear shirts is cut generously to ensure that most men will find them comfortable. The problem with this is that if your arm doesn’t fill the armhole you’re left with a lot of loose fabric under your arm. Getting the armhole fit right is very important.

 

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Accessories

 

Mother of pearl buttons. Collarbones to  keep collar straight and upright.

 

 

Fit

 

Slim, contemporary and classic. Contemporary is my favourite. Which is not too slim nor too loose.

 

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Monogram

 

Monogram should be tone on tone on the bottom edge of the cuff, elegantly and casually visible from under the jacket sleeve. A few cms of the cuff should always be visible outside the jacket sleeve.

 

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Front placket

 

Front placket can vary from classic,hidden bottom or no placket at all.

 

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Collar

 

Shapes may vary from cut away to French collar but my favourite is the stitchless hidden-down button classical collar . Perfect for any occasion. The collar should have no creases; be perfectly fused without feeling like cardboard; should be upright when not wearing a tie, and at no time should lie flat or spread open like wings. When wearing a jacket with a shirt, a well-made collar should be about 1.5 cm taller than the jacket collar at the back.

 

 

Sleeve

 

The perfect shirt sleeve should always have a straight and tubular shape, never too loose or too full.

 

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Fabric

 

My ultimate shirt fabric is Fine Sea Island cotton.Their fibers are much longer than other cottons, and thus easy to spin into smoother yarns. The feel is incredibly comfortable.

 

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Sleeve placket

 

Could have one or two buttons, but should have an opening of about 17 cm to allow easy rolling on a hot summer day.

 

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Pocket

 

Pockets make a work shirt look smart, but I prefer a no pocket shirt.