Bespoke Special: Here Are Stores That Offer The Latest Cuts, Fits And Fabrics
Long before Bespoke became a buzzword in India, these stories had already mastered the art.
Sunil and Sushain Mital, MD and Director of Studio Firang/Darzi Group
Since 1981, we have had the honour of dressing some of our country’s finest and most elegant men. We have five stores across New Delhi and NCR, and our flagship store is in Rajouri Garden.
Bespoke is our forte. When someone knows exactly what they want, we guarantee a product that speaks their language and compliments their character.
Our patrons are all true gentlemen who we just help to find their own style statement. With the wide variety of fabrics we offer at our store, we love experimenting with different looks for each of our customers. We are always around to help our clients, and we are supported by a team of in-house stylists and designers, who help with fabrics, cuts, measurements and shapes to suit each individual.
While on the one hand our existing patrons have, over the years, trusted us to put their wardrobes together for them, our younger lot is not only experimental but they also come in knowing what they want to look like. We are having a lot more fun than we have ever had.
Tailoring is like architecture — the fundamentals never change. Fortunately, as a society, we love colour, which makes our collection more fun. This season, prints are a must in every gentleman’s wardrobe. For more conservative men we suggest hand embroidered pocket squares. We are big on accessories too. This season we are obsessed with half-lined summer jackets.
Unaiz Ahmed, Partner, Syed Bawkher and Co.
Our store in Chennai was founded in 1904, and we count people from all age groups and all walks of life among our clients. Indian men are realising the importance of a good fit more than ever, so high-end bespoke is in demand. It gives you things that off-the-rack and made-to-measure garments cannot. In the case of the latter, there is a limit to how much one can customise.
Nowadays, youngsters in particular are knowledgeable about the latest trends. They know exactly what they want, and will ask us to customise it for them. They are particular about the taper and length of their trousers, and the fits of their jackets. So we also have to stay up-to-date about the latest cuts, fits and fabrics to keep them happy.
At the moment, there’s a lot of demand for unconstructed jackets as well as those with softer padding. The canvases we use are the best in the world. There has been so much evolution in technology that the construction of our jackets has evolved a lot.
Today, fashion is very open. There are so many trends, from broad lapels to double-breasted and unlined jackets. Different designers are doing different things, so for us, the key is to be neutral and recommend styles that would suit our customers.
Shanawaz Chandiwala, Owner, Kings Cavalcade
Our store has been around in Mumbai since 1959, and we count lawyers, stock brokers and businessmen who must wear suits daily as our primary clientele. Basic suits in black, blue and grey are the most common requests we get, and around 30 per cent of our business is wedding wear.
In our experience with the latter category, the younger crowd wants to experiment a bit more with what they wear on their big day, while people over 30 tend to stick to a classic look. In the last two years, lots of people have been requesting us for tuxedos for ceremonial occasions. I’m a third-generation owner of the store, and am in the process of getting Savile Row certified as an authorised suit cutter and maker.
Today’s buyer is smart. He does his research and comes with reference images. We educate him about what kind of fabric to opt for and so on. We were the first authorized Scabal shop-in-shop in India, and we also stock a range of imported Italian wools as well as Merino wool from Australia. We have sold a suit for over Rs 6.5 lakh, which was made using the Raymond Chairman’s Collection Super 220s fabric.