This month, Sushain Mittal, Director, The Darzi Group, on the fabrics to opt for when getting a suit made, jacket linings and more.

How much material is typically required for a three-piece suit, in terms of meters?

Usually, 3.5 meters of fabric are needed for a 3-piece suit, for a normal size.

What blend of material should I look for, for maximum durability and longevity?

Usually all-wool fabric is the best, as it is durable and can also be worn throughout the year.

Is there really that much of a difference between the best Indian fabric and the best Italian fabric?

Yes, there is a difference between Indian and Italian fabric, as the latter is made with high technology, which helps incorporate different blends of yarns. For example, for summer blazers, a new blend of fabric, which is wool-linen-silk, has been introduced. It wrinkles less than the pure linen jacketing that is usually made by Indian fabric manufacturers.

What’s the best way to maintain a linen suit?

Linen usually wrinkles a lot, and that’s actually the beauty of it. It should be steam ironed rather than dry cleaned.

I’ve seen many people with their suit trousers bunching up at the ankle slightly. I think it looks unseemly, but is that the way a trouser should fall?

It’s a new or a modern fashion to wear your trouser ankle-length, but it’s not necessary to do so. That’s a personal choice.

Lined or unlined – what sort of suit jacket should I go for?

A summer blazer should be half lined. Winter fabrics fall better when lined.

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