Luxury Watches – The Best Swiss Watches From Time To Move – Part Deux
Our favourites from what we saw at the `Time to Move’ show
Last year, the Swatch Group caused a major stir in international watch circles by ending its decades-long relationship with Baselworld, the world’s largest horology fair, saying that it will instead organize its own invitees-only show in the future. Appropriately named `Time To Move’, the 2019 debut show lived up to expectations. It was split into two parts — a trade version which was held in Zurich in March, and the show for the international press which was organized over three days in April in ‘Suisse Romande’, the local name for the French-speaking region around Geneva, where much of the country’s watch industry is located. MW was one of the few Indian publications invited for the show, where instead of one all-encompassing exhibition, we were taken on extensive tours of the facilities of six Swatch group luxury brands — Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Harry Winston, Jaquet Droz and Omega — where each of the manufacturers displayed and spoke about their new collection. In the second of our two-part series, we cover the most striking Glashütte Original, Harry Winston and Omega watches we saw.
The PanoMaticLunar has a refined moon phase display, featuring a golden moon and stars scattered across a silver sky. The various displays have been positioned on the dial according to the Golden Ratio — the law of aesthetic harmony that has inspired artists and architects for centuries. The dial is made in-house, and up to 40 separate steps are required to produce it. This 40 mm watch in a red gold case has a 42- hour power reserve; the sapphire crystal caseback offers an unobstructed view into the movement and its characteristic Glashütte elements. It is fitted with a dark blue Louisiana alligator strap with buckle or fold fastener in red gold.
PANOINVERSE LIMITED EDITION
This amazing watch is a new interpretation of the idea of open-working. Limited to 25 pieces, this platinum timepiece has the lavishly rhythmically pulsating screw balance at its centre; the assembly seems to be floating on air. The threequarter plate is also shown. Filigree foliage flows over the rhodium-plated surface in fine lines and delicate branching, both on the upper side and the back of the movement. The unconventional face is enhanced by screw-mounted gold chatons, ruby-red jewels, blued screws and gilt engravings. The white gold hour and minute hands are skeletonized. Along with the hour, minute and small second indicators, the watch has a power reserve display and a second-stop mechanism. The movement is housed in a 42mm polished and satin-brushed platinum case. The cornflower blue of the screws, the finely grained dial and the dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap offer additional blue accents. It comes with a 41-hour power reserve.
SIXTIES ANNUAL EDITION
The watches come with 40 hours power reserve and are available only for a limited period.
For its annual edition 2019, the Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date are presented in multi-faceted orange. The new models feature unusual dégradé dials. The watch face presents its signature curvature, from the dial and the hands to the sapphire crystal, anti-reflective on both side. Arabic numerals, diamond-cut indexes, manually applied hour markers and hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova add additional accents. Beginning with a golden yellow at the centre, the colour flows across the curved surface, changing to orange and red before reaching the black perimeter. The low-relief pattern is produced using the original tools and methods from the 1960s. Developed in-house, the automatic movements are mounted in polished stainless steel cases —39mm for the three-hand Sixties and 42mm for the Panorama Date. A brown Louisiana alligator leather strap with pin-buckle closure rounds off the vintage design. The watches come with 40 hours power reserve and are available only for a limited period.
SEAQ PANORAMA DATE
The characteristic big date, a typical feature of Glashütte Original, gives this 43.2mm version of the SeaQ diving watch its name and is positioned at 4 o’clock. The dial — optionally either black or blue with a sunray finish — presents the hands, applied Arabic numerals and indexes in green or white, respectively. The Calibre 36 has been adapted to meet the challenges of timekeeping underwater. The bayonet mounting ensures that the movement is anchored in the case for effective shock-resistance. It features a 100-hour running time. It is offered with three strap versions: a stable, flat stainless steel bracelet with 8-step fine adjustment mechanism; a robust, water-resistant nylon mesh strap; and a distinctive rubber strap with embossed design. All guarantee a secure fit on the wrist.
SENATOR CHRONOMETER TOURBILLON LIMITED EDITION
For the first time, this certified chronometer combines a flying tourbillon with a second-stop mechanism, zero reset and minute detent. The tourbillon’s rotating cage stops the moment the crown is pulled, and since the second hand is mounted on the cage, it also stops immediately. This ensures that the minute and second hands are synchronised, allowing for the time to be set with great precision. The manual winding caliber has a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound, indicated by the display at 9 o’clock. The 42 mm case in platinum features the galvanic blue dial which along with the flying tourbillion rises like little towers over the upper and lower halves of the movement, resulting in a remarkable three-dimensional effect. The open design and a partially transparent sapphire crystal ring bearing the seconds scale draw the viewer’s gaze into the depths of the watch. Various hand engravings and the classic Glashütte stripe finish round off the decoration. The mirrored upper ring displays at 12 o’clock the inscription `Chronometer Tourbillon’ engraved back-to-front on the dial fastener. Comes with a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap with a fold fastener in platinum.
This 42 mm watch has a newly designed case in red gold. The slimmer bezel offers more space for the dial and its silver-grained texture. The silver-grained lacquer lends the surface a velvety texture. The railroad chapter ring, indexes and numerals are laser-engraved and then galvanized in black. Pear-shaped hands in blued steel for hour and minute glide along their paths. Further hands in blued steel show the running time indication and small seconds displays, which are turned into the dial, thus lending it additional depth. A discreet day/night indication simplifies setting of the date and is positioned in a round opening within the running time display: from 6 in the morning until 6 in the evening, the little circle appears in white, and from that point on in black. A sapphire crystal case-back shows the Glashütte art of watchmaking at a glance. A dark brown Louisiana alligator leather strap with fold fastener or pin buckle in red gold complete the design. It has a 44-hour power reserve.
AVENUE CLASSIC MOON PHASE
Adorned with diamonds, the mother-of-pearl background brings the moon phase and the allure of Harry Winston to the wrist. Blue appears in a two-tone scheme on the dial, created using hand-painted mother-of-pearl to reveal cloud-like formations within a deep sky. Sunbeams, which appear to radiate from the emerald at the top of the dial, get progressively larger as they journey to the border of the dial. The contrast of dark blue and lighter blue rays provides a backdrop for the diamond clusters decorating the dial. The moon phase complication is located in an aperture at 6 o’clock and shows the moon journeying against a night sky illuminated with stars. Fitted with a high-end Swiss quartz movement, the timepiece displays central hour and minute hands, a moon phase and a small seconds hand above a semi-circle of brilliant-cut diamonds at 6 o’clock. The 18-karat white gold Avenue Classic Moon Phase is presented on a pearly blue alligator leather strap, while the rose gold model is presented on a pearly brown alligator leather strap. The 18-karat gold folding buckle is set with six brilliant-cut diamonds.
KALEIDOSCOPE HIGH JEWELRY
Housed in platinum cases, the dials of the four Kaleidoscope timepieces are fully set with 71 brilliant-cut diamonds and the iconic white gold Harry Winston Emerald applique at 12 o’clock. Two of the models feature round brilliant, pear-shaped and marquise-cut stones, and recall Winston’s love for “clustering,” or creating the dynamic arrangements that might be found inside a kaleidoscope. The underlying platinum structure fades into the background to let each individual stone stand out. Forty pear-shaped diamonds, 10 marquise-cut diamonds and 105 round brilliant diamonds shine in a unique arrangement on the case. A closer look reveals two hearts, at either end of the case, made from two pear-shaped diamonds. A second diamond-driven model features the same stone arrangement, but with a burst of colour. It is set with 85 brilliant-cut diamonds, 20 brilliant-cut Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines, 20 pear-shaped diamonds, 10 pearshaped blue sapphires, 10 pear-shaped tsavorites, 5 marquise-cut diamonds, and 5 marquise-cut pink sapphires. All four models are presented on satin straps with a platinum buckle set with 29 brilliant-cut diamonds.
PREMIER LOTUS AUTOMATIC 31MM
This watch features a lotus sculpture rising from the pearly waters of the dial. Presented in either 18-karat white or rose gold, the bloom of the flower is matched by a sophisticated mechanical movement. It is composed of layered petals that rise to greet the viewer from a pool of mother-of-pearl. Each petal is sculpted in 18-karat white or rose gold and filled with precious and semi-precious materials. The white gold model has a blue colour palette, achieved using different varieties of mother-of-pearl. Interspersed throughout the bloom are petals set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and others filled with martelé white gold. The rose gold model plays with more earthy tones and features petals in different shades of taupe mother-of-pearl, golden tiger’s eye and martelé rose gold. The dials have 147 brilliant-cut diamonds and seven marquise-cut diamonds set near the centre of the flower. The hour and minute functions are powered by a high-end Swiss mechanical automatic movement. The straps of both models echo the colour scheme of the dial; the white gold model is presented with a pearly blue alligator strap, while the rose gold version comes with a pearly brown alligator strap. Both are fastened to the wrist with a matching gold ardillon buckle set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds..
HISTOIRE DE TOURBILLON 10
This watch marks the 10th anniversary of the Harry Winston collection dedicated to the tourbillion. After using tourbillons with single, double or triple axes, combined with single or double tourbillons or a carousel, the latest avatar is equipped with four tourbillons. The tourbillions are arranged in a perfectly symmetrical order with the four independent, adjacent cores rotating every 36 seconds. The four tourbillions pack in as many as 673 components because of which it is housed in a massive rectangular case 53.3 mm wide and 39.1 mm tall. The openworked movement can be can be seen in the four corners of the case, housed in a glass box supported by two transverse bridges. The dial is a single component sapphire piece. The HW4702 caliber which drives the watch has a power reserve of 55 hours.
The dial is a single component sapphire piece.
OCEAN SPARKLING BIRETROGRADE AUTOMATIC 42MM
A first in watchmaking, the use of ruthenium crystals provides a shiny, textured background for the impressive double retrograde display and off-centered hours and minutes. The watch features two complications: a double retrograde display and excentered hours and minutes. They are designed for everyday wear and are water-resistant up to 100 metres. The excentered hours and minutes counter commands the upper part of the deck and are emblazoned with the emerald-shaped gold Harry Winston applique at 12 o’clock. White gold indexes, separated by brilliant-cut diamonds, mark the hours, while a chapter ring tracks the minutes. Housed in 18-karat white or rose gold cases, the new models are adorned with a setting of 67 baguette-cut diamonds. They are also featured inside the distinctive arches at the crown, a nod to the shape of the arched doorway leading to Harry Winston’s Fifth Avenue Flagship Salon. The movement is decorated with circular Côtes de Genève motifs, rhodium plating and circular graining. The watch is presented on an elegant brown or blue alligator strap and is fastened to the wrist with an 18-karat gold folding buckle set with 24 baguette-cut diamonds. It comes with a 65-hour power reserve.
Supported by transverse arms, two reading elements occupy the top and bottom of Project Z13. At twelve o’clock, the traditional openworked dial, with its excentered hours and minutes, stands out as a design element in the collection. At six o’clock, a moon phase display appears for the first time in this collection. The House opted for the Shuriken symbol, a star that has been part of the Project Z design vocabulary from the very beginning. To round out this interpretation, the design is not circular, but dodecagonal in form. Its 12 facets hug the cutout of the moon cover. The HW3202 caliber also has a retrograde date, a display feature that is used repeatedly in the collection. Its wide range occupies the entire lower half of the dial. The caliber is visible through the large openings afforded by the supporting structures of the dial. The 42.2 mm case is made of Zalium. In addition, the four arms that hold the moon cover and the outer section of the chapter ring are fitted with carbon fibre inserts. Blue is present on the hands, the background of the starry moon disc, the date area, the Harry Winston emerald located at twelve o’clock and the elements surrounding the excentered dial.
SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA WORLDTIMER
The dial is surrounded by a circle of global destinations, including the city of Bienne at GMT+1, Omega’s home in Switzerland.
This new model has a 43mm brushed and polished case made from stainless steel, which has now been integrated with the watch’s blue rubber strap through a solid polished link. This is reminiscent of the style within Omega’s core Aqua Terra collection. The sun-brushed blue dial includes the Aqua Terra’s vertical teak stripes, as well as a new inner ring. The dial is surrounded by a circle of global destinations, including the city of Bienne at GMT+1, Omega’s home in Switzerland. The centre of the dial contains a 24-hour hesalite crystal ring. The light blue half indicates daytime, while the dark blue half indicates night. Omega has created its vision of the earth using a grade 5 titanium plate. This has been laserablated to create the blue ocean, leaving a relief of the continents. The contrasting colours of the earth’s surface are obtained naturally by the laser’s chemical reaction. The watch’s blue rubber strap has been given a quilted texture with contrasting light blue stitching.
SEAMASTER DIVER 300M
Buyers can now choose this model with a new white ceramic [ZrO2] dial. The colour contrasts with the surrounding black bezel and stainless steel case. To give the new ceramic white dial extra depth, Omega has included laser-engraved waves, a date window at 6 o’clock and the famous Seamaster name highlighted in red. Blackened hands and indexes complete the design and are filled with white Super-LumiNova. The 42mm case is in stainless steel and is mounted with a black ceramic bezel ring filled with a white enamel diving scale. Stainless steel is also used for the polished-brushed bracelet that is integrated with the case. There is also Omega’s extendable foldover rack-and-pusher with an extra diver extension.
DE VILLE TRÉSOR
The Trésor line was first launched in 1949 and was defined by its legendary 30mm calibre. Seventy years later, the classic gents’ timepiece breaks new ground with a manual-winding Master Chronometer movement. Presented on a blue leather strap, the first model in the new collection features a 40mm polished case that has been crafted in stainless case. Scratchresistant sapphire crystal is used on both sides. As well as including a date window at 6 o’clock, the domed blue dial has been given a brass-stamped pattern and further stands out with the use of polished hands and domed indexes, all in 18K white gold. This model is driven by the Master Co-Axial Calibre 8910. To become a Master Chronometer, the movement and the watch have to reach the industry’s highest standard of precision, chronometric performance and magnetic resistance, as approved by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).
SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN CHRONOGRAPH
Titanium has enjoyed an important part in Omega’s history of diving watches. This year, it has been integrated into one of the brand’s classic underwater timepieces. The new chronograph stands out, thanks to its ceramised titanium dial. Its effect is further accentuated by rhodium-plated hands and indexes, as well as orange touches, such as the varnished hand on the 3 o’clock subdial, the applied number 12 and the tip of the central seconds hand. Sized at 45.5mm, the stainless steel case includes a new orange ceramic [ZrO2] bezel ring, with a diving scale filled with white liquid ceramic and Super-LumiNova. The pushers are also given a touch of colour, thanks to their polished ceramic rings. It comes with a 5-stripe orange, grey and white polyamide NATO strap. The design includes a buckle and strap keepers in polished stainless steel. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, wearers can view the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9900.
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER APOLLO 11, 50TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION
The new limited edition Speedmaster pays tribute to the first Apollo lunar landing in 1969, where the original version of this watch made history. The dial is made up of two distinct zones, a varnished central grey zone and an outer black minute track. Omega’s proprietary 18K gold alloy called Moonshine gold which is a hue paler than traditional yellow gold but is resistant to fading over time is used for the bevelled indexes, the vintage Omega logo and all the hands except the central chronograph seconds hand. The latter is PVD coated in Moonshine gold, while the 11 o’clock hour index has been distinctly marked as a tribute to Apollo 11. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock features a 18K Moonshine gold plate with a laser-engraved image of Buzz Aldrin, the second Apollo astronaut on the moon, who was the first to wear the Speedmaster on the lunar surface (Neil Armstrong had left his Speedmaster inside the lunar capsule after its electronic timer malfunctioned). The watch is powered by a new version of the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement which was in development for more than four years. It comes in a 42 mm case in stainless steel and a polished bezel made from Moonshine gold. The bezel ring in polished black ceramic features a radiant Omega Ceragold tachymeter scale. The caseback bears the image of an astronaut’s footprint laser-engraved on a black-coated plate with a moonsurface texture, with Armstrong’s famous line `THAT’S ONE SMALL STEP FOR A MAN, ONE GIANT LEAP FOR MANKIND’ in gold-plated lettering. The limited edition consists of 6969 numbered pieces.
SEAMASTER 300 MALACHITE
The classic Seamaster design has provided the starting point for this year’s new model in 18K yellow gold. For admirers of precious materials, it is distinguished by a malachite dial. The decorative stone malachite, sourced from South Africa, offers a wide range of green tones, distributed in concentric areas. The material has been used extensively in the decoration of sacred temples, palaces and churches. In balance with the malachite dial, Omega has crafted the 41mm case in 18K yellow gold. The same material is used for the faceted hands as well as the bezel, with its polished ceramic ring and Omega Ceragold diving scale. The watch is presented on a green leather strap and is driven by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8913.
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