PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA – 44 MM PAM01117

70 years after the introduction of the tritium-based luminous substance, Luminor, which later provided the name for the brand’s most emblematic range, Panerai has created a watch with even greater luminosity. The green luminescence of the advanced Super-LumiNovaTM X1 on this watch goes beyond hour markers and hands, encompassing large parts of the watch, including the decal on the dial, the rehaut, the stitching on the strap, the crown, the crown-protecting bridge, and its lever. Surprisingly light, it comes in a 44 mm titanium case, powered by the automatic mechanical P.9010 calibre with a power reserve of three days. The watch has a 70-year warranty.

LANGE & SÖHNE ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER

A.Lange created history with this range, the first mechanical wristwatch with a jumping numerals display and a decimal minute repeater, where the acoustic time indication corresponds exactly with the jumping numerals reading. This new limited edition (30 pieces) model comes in a deep blue dial, set in a 44.2 mm white gold case. The technical challenge of making this watch was to combine the jumping numerals mechanism, with a minute repeater that translates the digitally displayed time into a logical sequence of tones. After the striking mechanism button at 10 o’ clock is activated at a given hour, say at 12.59 pm for example, the striking mechanism produces twelve low tones for the hours, five double strikes for the ten-minute intervals, and nine high tones for the single minutes. The Calibre L043.5 mechanism, with its hours and minutes with digital display, running seconds, power-reserve indicator, and decimal minute repeater, has a power reserve of 36 hours.

ROGER DUBUIS EXCALIBUR DIABOLUS IN MACHINA

The brand’s famous skeletonised flying tourbillon is combined with a minute repeater, in this grand complication. The 45 mm case, expectedly, is made from Roger Dubuis’s proprietary material called CarTech MicroMelt BioDur CCMTM, which is not only wear resistant, but unlike steel, has an enduring shine. When the minute repeater button at 10 o’clock is activated, it comes alive to the sound of the tritone, the famous ‘Diabolus in Musica’ chord, outlawed in medieval religious music. Simultaneously, a transparent disc located at 11 o’clock with the words hour, quarters and minutes, starts spinning as a visual accompaniment. The automatic Caliber RD0107 has a power reserve of 60 hours.

MONTBLANC 1858 GEOSPHERE IN BLUE

With its two distinctive turning domed hemisphere globes and worldtime complication, this watch, which is dedicated to the Seven Summits Challenge (the holy grail of international mountaineering where climbers have to summit the highest peaks on each continent) has always been one of the icons of Montblanc’s 1858 line. This new version, in a 42 mm titanium case, comes with a deep blue dial, with contrasting icy white design details inspired by the colours of glaciers and ice. The Seven Summits are marked on the turning globes, with blue dots. They are also engraved on the case back, along with a unique drawing of the Mont Blanc mountain, a compass, and two crossed ice pickaxes. The turning domed hemisphere globes, at six and 12 o’clock, are surrounded by a fixed scale, with 24 time zones, and include a day/night indicator coated in rhodium, for both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CONTROL CHRONOGRAPH CALENDAR

This showpiece model of JLC’s Master Control collection features a newly developed movement Calibre 759, which combines a chronograph with a triple calendar display, and a moon-phase. The 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock is balanced by the running seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, while the day and month windows on the top are balanced by the moon-phase and date indicator, at 6 o’clock. The entire display is anchored by the central chronograph seconds hand, and contained by the pulsometric scale marked around the dial flange. Comes in a stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold® case. With a calf or alligator leather strap, it offers a power reserve of 65 hours.

HYT H5 FLUID

HYT’s new watch for 2020 is characterised by the vivid azure-coloured liquid that runs through its capillaries, powering the display of the watch. Visible through the see-through sapphire case back, an intricately shaped cam offers thirteen different possibilities to adjust and index the hour and minute indications. The 48.8mm stainless steel case combines an array of shades of grey — from anthracite on the hour ring and flange, to a gun-metal bridge — with coloured accents. The mechanical winding movement has a power reserve of 65 hours. Limited to 25 pieces.

IWC PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR 42

For the first time, in this range, the famous IWC calendar complication has been integrated in an in-house movement from the 82000-calibre family. The perpetual calendar automatically adjusts during the leap year. The date, month and day of the week are distributed over three sub-dials at 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock. The perpetual moon-phase display, which is integrated into the month display, deviates from the actual orbit of the moon by only a day after 577.5 years. An indicator in the weekday display counts the years until the next leap year. The automatic 82650 calibre has a power reserve of 60 hours. Two models of the watch come in an 18k, 5N gold case, and a third one in stainless steel.

CARTIER SANTOS-DUMONT XL

This is the first modern men’s wristwatch. The timepiece, with a square bezel and visible screws, was originally created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his aviator friend Alberto Santos Dumont, to enable him to read the time while on a flight. The 2020 model is part of set of three watches, available in limited engraved series of 30 pieces, presented in a precious box. The three versions come in 46.6 x 33.9 mm contoured cases in pink gold, pink gold and steel, and steel, respectively. The crown is set in sapphire cabochon, and blue synthetic spinel cabochon. Powered by the 430 MC mechanical movement with manual winding, with a power reserve of 38 hours.

HERMÈS ARCEAU L’HEURE DE LA LUNE

This stunning watch displays moon-phases in both the northern and southern hemispheres. The display consists of two mobile counters displaying time and date that turn weightlessly on a dial made of material from lunar, Martian or Black Sahara meteorites. While maintaining a horizontal orientation, the counters, while turning, reveal two moon discs made from the motherof-pearl stone. They display the lunar cycles in the northern and southern hemispheres simultaneously. At 12 o’clock, a winged horse, representing the origins of Hermès, gallops across the full moon, to indicate the passage of day into night. On the other side, at 6 o’clock, the view of the moon from the northern hemisphere provides a realistic depiction of its surface. The 43 mm case is in white gold. Limited to 36 pieces.

BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC DAY-DATE MOON-PHASE

The round 42 mm rose gold case, with satin-polished, double-bevelled edges of this watch, emphasises the gradated lacquered grey dial. The dial reveals the moon phases against a starry sky background, accentuated by the smoky grey sapphire crystal. The selfwinding movement BM14 1975 AC2 features a five-day power reserve.

ARNOLD & SON GLOBETROTTER NIGHT

This watch offers a realistic and meticulously rendered interpretation of a three-dimensional map enclosed in a 45 mm steel case. Beneath the large sapphire crystal dome is an arch that supports a half-globe, in shades of grey and blue. It depicts the continents, the seas, and the lights of the large cities, located north of the equator. On the edge of the planet, a sapphire ring breaks down the 24 hours of a day. A darkened metal treatment between 6am and 6pm indicates the night-time hours. Together, the hemisphere and ring display the time in one part of the world. In the absence of a dedicated hand or city disc, the time is read geographically, in accordance with the continents. The A&S6022 self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 45 hours. Limited edition of 50 pieces.