Gucci to Open Milan Fashion Week with a Co-ed Runway Show
Gucci to Open Milan Fashion Week with a Co-ed Runway Show

Sabato De Sarno Sets the tone for a new chapter 

While the fashion world is still hooked on Paris couture, Milan is already moving forward, preparing for a packed Fashion Week. Though the official schedule remains under wraps, one major announcement has surfaced—Gucci will set the stage as the opening act. 

 

Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci is scheduled to present its Fall/Winter 2024 collection on February 25 at an undisclosed location. The brand embraces a "unified" format, showcasing both men's and women's collections together, reflecting De Sarno’s vision of a seamless, cohesive narrative. Gucci’s Cruise 2026 show, set for May 15 in Florence, will also follow this approach. 

 

 

Running until March 3, Milan Fashion Week is expected to be more dynamic than the recent menswear season. Many brands have merged their shows or repositioned their presentations for strategic milestones. Fendi, marking its centennial, is forgoing a separate men’s showcase, instead unveiling a coed runway event in February. With Kim Jones having exited womenswear, Silvia Venturini Fendi is currently overseeing design efforts across the board. 

 

Dsquared2 is taking a similar approach. The brand, helmed by Dean and Dan Caten, has aligned its 30th-anniversary show with the women's schedule, further blurring the traditional lines of fashion week programming. Meanwhile, fresh creative talent is making waves, with Lorenzo Serafini debuting at Alberta Ferretti, Alberto Caliri returning to Missoni, and David Koma taking the helm at Blumarine. 

 

 

The ongoing shuffle of creative directors has only intensified speculation surrounding Milan Fashion Week. Rumours abound that Luke and Lucie Meier may soon part ways with Jil Sander post-Fall 2025, with Bally’s Simone Bellotti rumoured as a possible successor. Diesel’s Glenn Martens is also frequently named as a contender to step into a leadership role at Maison Margiela following John Galliano’s departure.  

Then there’s Versace, a house currently at a crossroads. Industry insiders are questioning whether Donatella Versace will renew her contract as chief creative officer. Meanwhile, parent company Capri Holdings is actively fielding bids for Versace and Jimmy Choo, with Barclays managing the sale process. What began with 15 potential buyers has reportedly been narrowed down, with final bids expected in early February. 

 

 

Even former Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri is making moves, reportedly assembling investors for a new venture in Milan’s fashion scene. Whether he returns with a fresh project or aligns himself with an established house remains to be seen. 

Gucci’s decision to open Milan Fashion Week is more than a scheduling move—it’s a strategic statement. The brand is leading a season of transformation, where coed presentations are the new standard, industry shake-ups keep the fashion world on its toes, and major labels are up for grabs. 

 

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