Paris may be known for its drizzle, but Hermès FW25 menswear brought the kind of warmth that makes you forget your umbrella. With Véronique Nichanian at the helm, the collection galloped straight into the brand’s equestrian roots, offering a masterclass in transforming jockey silks into sleek, wearable art. Think deep, earthy tones offset by jolts of tomato red and lemon yellow, swaths of bouclé you want to wrap yourself in, and geometric patterns sharp enough to make your math teacher jealous.  
 
Hermès has always been the reigning monarch of equestrian fashion. And while it’s easy to romanticise its saddle-making roots, Véronique Nichanian doesn’t settle for nostalgia. Instead, she reimagines the brand’s DNA for today’s man—one who values timeless craftsmanship but isn’t afraid to embrace the contemporary edge. 

 
The collection leans heavily into Hermès’ equestrian identity, with design cues borrowed straight from the racetrack. Colour-blocked silk shirts reminiscent of jockey silks made a statement with their vibrant patterns, while slim-cut trousers echoed the streamlined efficiency of riding pants. There were even nods to saddlery in the form of leather trims and belts that added a utilitarian touch to otherwise refined looks. 
 
The palette was distinctly autumnal anchored in deep browns, dark teals, and charcoal greys, but livened up with brighter accents. A pop of tomato red on a scarf, a flash of lemon yellow on a turtleneck, or a soft stone-coloured overcoat brought balance to the rich, moody tones, ensuring the collection never felt too heavy. 

 
Outerwear was unquestionably the star of the show, with Véronique Nichanian showcasing a mastery of texture. The oversized teddy mohair coats came in earthy hues and were so luxuriously plush that they practically invited you to sink into them. Blanket-lined coats, featuring striking contrasts between rugged exteriors and soft interiors, gave a new meaning to cosiness. 
 
Not to mention, there was also a spotlight on mixed materials: leather jackets with bouclé collars, shearling-lined bombers, and overcoats that played with matte and glossy finishes. One standout piece—a long belted coat in double-faced cashmere—embodied Hermès’ unparalleled attention to detail and craftsmanship. 

Even the knitwear offered textural intrigue. Sweaters with bold geometric patterns stood out not just for their design but for their materiality—crafted from the finest wools and cashmere blends, they were the kind of pieces that make layering in winter feel like an art form. 
 
Nichanian’s playful approach to design came through in the collection’s knitwear, which took centre stage alongside the outerwear. Sweaters adorned with bold chevrons, patchwork squares, and abstract triangles created a visual symphony of geometry. 

 
One standout was a crewneck sweater in muted browns and yellows, its pattern resembling a kaleidoscope of modernist art. Another—a turtleneck in navy and red—offered a more subdued take, perfect for pairing with one of the collection’s tailored coats.   
 
While the outerwear and knitwear played with bold textures and patterns, the tailored pieces brought the collection back to its roots of understated sophistication. Slim-cut pinstripe suits in charcoal grey and navy offered a sleek alternative to the oversized trend dominating recent menswear. These suits were styled with crisp shirts and silk ties featuring subtle prints—a modern take on the quintessential Hermès elegance. 

 
Trousers were slightly tapered. High-waisted options with subtle pleats added a touch of retro charm, while cropped lengths ensured a contemporary feel. Even the accessories stayed true to the equestrian theme. Leather satchels, crossbody bags, and calfskin boots brought functional luxury to the forefront. A series of bucket hats in felted wool added a casual twist.  

With Véronique Nichanian at the helm, Hermès reminded us why it’s the gold standard of menswear. It’s about more than impeccable tailoring and luxurious materials—it’s about creating clothes that feel as good as they look.  

Credits - 

RUNWAY @Filippo Fior
DETAILS @Armando Grillo