There’s a difference between putting on clothes and actually dressing up. 

Most men approach big occasions like a checklist. Outfit? Bought. Shoes? Somewhere. Hair? Managed. And then they step into a ballroom, a wedding, a black-tie dinner, and look like they’ve shown up rather than arrived. Most also think a big occasion just means buying something expensive and hoping the lighting is forgiving. 

But it wasn’t always this way. As a veteran designer, JJ Valaya puts it, men were once the original peacocks. They dressed with code. With intention. With pride. Occasionwear was character. Somewhere along the way, though, we got lazy. We started mistaking price for polish, and “safe” for stylish. 

So, instead of guessing, we turned to the designers who’ve spent decades shaping how Indian men show up for their biggest nights: Abraham & Thakore and Valaya himself, along with designer duo Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna. 

Abraham & Thakore 

The pair’s show at FDCI Men’s Weekend in Jaipur explored how everyday Indian garments can be reimagined for the modern wardrobe. The duo turned the humble lungi into sharply constructed “sartorial sarongs”, pairing them with tailored shirts and jackets to position the traditional drape as a confident alternative to trousers 

What do men commonly get wrong for formal occasions? 

The tendency is to equate importance with excess. Heavy embellishment or overt statements often replace clarity. True occasion dressing relies on proportion, textile and restraint rather than surface drama. 

How has elegant occasionwear evolved? 

It has shifted from spectacle to subtlety. Where once ornament defined formality, today it is nuance: depth of fabric, precision of cut and a more personal expression of elegance. 

How important are fabric and texture? 

Fabric is central. Texture shapes how a garment absorbs light and responds to movement. It creates dimension without the need for excess detail. 

What role do tailoring and fit play? 

Tailoring provides structure and discipline. A refined fit elevates even the simplest garment, allowing it to hold its presence with confidence. 

How can men stay comfortable yet polished? 

Through breathable natural textiles, thoughtful construction and silhouettes that allow ease. Comfort should not be separate from formality; it should be built into it. 

What small styling adjustments refine a look? 

Attention to sleeve length, trouser break, layering proportions and footwear choice can shift an outfit from adequate to assured. 

Which traditional conventions remain relevant? 

Clarity of line, quality of fabric and respect for proportion remain timeless. These principles endure beyond trend. 

Versatile pieces every man should own? 

A well-cut jacket, a structured kurta, tailored trousers and refined footwear — garments that adapt across occasions while maintaining integrity. 

Pro Tip: Skip the excess. Focus on sharp tailoring, rich fabric and clean proportions. That’s what makes occasionwear look truly expensive. 

Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna 

Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna unveiled their Spring Summer Couture 2026 collection Abyssal, inspired by the mysterious architecture of the ocean’s depths. Sculpted silhouettes, mineral tones and crystal embellishments echoed the quiet shimmer and structure of the deep sea. 

What are the most common mistakes men make when dressing for cocktail parties, galas and formal celebrations? 

The biggest mistake is outsourcing the decision. Many men leave the choice entirely to someone else and, in doing so, miss the opportunity to discover what actually suits them. The moment they walk into a store and try things on; the possibilities open up far more than they expect. The other mistake is playing it too safe and defaulting to what feels predictable instead of exploring subtle variations in cut, texture or tone that could elevate the look. 

How has men’s occasionwear become more experimental in recent years? 

We’re seeing a far greater interplay of texture and colour in men’s occasionwear today. Sherwanis are no longer limited to classic weaves; we see florals, bold surface treatments and more expressive prints entering the space. Accessories, too, have evolved beyond just a pocket square or tie. The overall mood feels more confident and less restricted. 

How can men add glamour to an occasion dress without appearing flashy? 

Men can opt for fabrics with a natural sheen, such as silk, velvet or even a finely finished cotton that carries a subtle lustre. Embroidery can be lightly accentuated with sequins or crystals, so it catches light without dominating the garment. A single statement brooch or a thoughtfully contrasting pocket square can elevate the look without overwhelming it. 

What are the key fit and proportion rules for modern formalwear? 

The shoulder line must be clean and precise. The jacket length should balance the body, not overwhelm it, and the sleeves should end exactly at the wrist bone, allowing just a hint of shirt cuff to show. Trousers should fall straight without excess pooling. 

How can texture and subtle embellishment elevate an outfit for evening events? 

Texture adds dimension to an outfit in a way that feels refined rather than obvious. Elements like quilting, tone-on-tone embroidery, jacquards or layered fabrics introduce depth without needing sharp contrast. When everything sits within the same colour family, the detailing feels intentional and controlled. It allows the garment to feel richer without overwhelming the overall look. 

What accessories, footwear or grooming choices can make or break a formal look? 

Shoes should be aligned with the tone and style of the outfit. When it comes to accessories, usually one strong statement piece, like a brooch or a necklace, is enough. Otherwise, classic, well-crafted cufflinks add elegance without overcomplicating the look. 

Grooming matters just as much. Clean lines, well-maintained hair and attention to detail go a long way. 

How can men add personality to occasionwear without relying on loud colours? 

By playing with texture, layering and new cuts. A unique lapel, asymmetric drapes, tonal embroidery or a distinctive fabric can express individuality without resorting to bright hues. 

How can a man transition one outfit across different types of occasions with small changes? 

A structured bandhgala with Mojari shoes works perfectly for a wedding. The same bandhgala jacket, kept open and paired with a draped silk shirt and leather shoes, makes for the perfect cocktail or bachelor’s night outfit. 

What is your fail-safe formula for looking sharp at any big event? 

Men should prioritise good fit and stay within a cohesive tonal palette when unsure. Most importantly, they should opt for pieces that feel natural to them and comfortable while pushing the envelope just a little bit. 

Pro Tip: Don’t play it safe. The sharpest occasion looks come from great fit, rich textures and one thoughtful statement detail. 

JJ Valaya 

Image Credit: Ashish Sahi 

JJ Valaya closed FDCI India Men’s Weekend in Jaipur with The Valaya Man: East, a collection that blended heritage craft with global minimalism. Fluid silhouettes, kimono-inspired overlays and understated detailing reinterpreted royal Indian dressing through a more contemporary, international lens 

What are the biggest mistakes men make when dressing for major occasions, whether weddings, galas or formal celebrations? 

Perhaps the biggest mistake isn’t “overdoing it.” It’s underfinishing the look. 

A lot of men will spend on the outfit and then sabotage it with the wrong shoes, often too casual, too bulky or badly polished; mismatched socks; no cufflinks when the shirt demands them; a belt that fights the outfit or doesn’t match the shoes; a watch that’s too loud; pocket squares that are folded incorrectly. The list is endless.  

Occasion dressing is not just clothing. It’s a lot about details and styling discipline. If you don’t respect the details, you don’t look effortless. You simply look incomplete. 

How has men’s occasion dressing evolved from the past to today? 

I’d go as far as to say that evolution in Indian men in the occasion and wedding wear space has been much more than women. They have indeed been the true peacocks. When I started my career in the late ’80s, men dressed with code and structure. Essentially, a suit worked everywhere. And if you’re getting married, a three-piece suit stitched by your favourite tailor. 

Today, the wardrobe is broader and more expressive. The modern man has many more options now and is not afraid to dress in glorious Indian attire to define himself.  

The downside is that many men often treat occasionwear like a costume. They buy a look, but they don’t style it right. Good styling is the perfect garnish, which must never be ignored. 

How can men wear heritage silhouettes in a modern way for different big events? 

Modernise the silhouette, not the soul. Keep the bandhgala, achkan, sherwani or Nehru jacket language intact, but refine the cut. Pair it intelligently and make it work for your body type. For example, tapered trousers can modernise a bandhgala, but the footwear must be equally intentional. Choose these strong elements in a balanced manner: silhouette, textile and surface embellishment. Heritage becomes modern through sharp editing, not unnecessary gimmicks. 

What details make an occasion outfit look luxurious without relying only on heavy embellishment? 

 Luxury is sensed before it’s seen. It comes from fabric depth, hand, fall and sheen, precision of fit, clean closures and hidden engineering, and a tonal detail that works for you. 

How should men approach colour when dressing for formal or celebratory settings? 

 Men need to stop treating colour as either “safe” or “crazy.” The answer is appropriate. Evenings want depth: black, charcoal, deep wine, sage green, midnight blue and antique gold. Day functions allow softer intelligence: ivories, sand and muted powder tones. And one hard truth: colour must flatter skin and lighting. A colour that looks good in-store can look flat in photographs under warm venue lighting. 

Which accessories genuinely elevate occasionwear, and which ones tend to feel excessive? 

Accessories elevate when they are considered: cufflinks that match the formality of the shirt, a pocket square that complements, not matches, the outfit, one good brooch instead of multiple distractions, and classic footwear, beautifully finished. Excessive is anything that competes for attention: too many hero pieces at once, jewellery without cultural context and novelty footwear. If people notice the accessory before they notice you, you’ve already gone wrong. 

How can men personalise their outfits while still respecting the tone of the event? 

 Personalisation should be private or precise: a monogram inside, an heirloom brooch or a signature colour that appears once. But respect the hierarchy of the room. At weddings especially, guests should never outshine the groom. Style with intelligence, not ego. 

Where should men draw the line between statement dressing and going overboard? 

Statement dressing is when one idea leads. Going overboard is when everything wants to lead. If your outfit has a loud textile, heavy embroidery, strong jewellery, dramatic footwear and high-contrast colour, then it’s not style, it’s noise. Choose one centre of gravity. 

What is your advice for men who want to look memorable yet refined at big occasions? 

Be unmistakable, not messy. Refinement is a sum of small decisions: impeccable shoes, the correct sock, cufflinks when needed, a well-chosen watch, and a look and silhouette tailored to your body, not the mannequin. Memorable men don’t look like they tried harder. They look like they know better. 

Pro Tip: Finish the look. The right shoes, cufflinks and details often matter more than the outfit itself.