Menswear doesn’t always get the spotlight at New York Fashion Week, but this season it demanded attention. Designers came armed with big ideas and even bigger contrasts. Hilfiger reinvented prep for guys who never owned a blazer, Snyder shipped us off to Havana, and Dsquared2 went completely off the rails in the most theatrical way possible. Off-White staked its claim on streetwear’s future while Calvin Klein and Cos pulled back to deliver sleek, sharpened minimalism. The message was simple: men’s fashion is no longer playing it safe.

Tommy Hilfiger New York

Tommy Hilfiger clearly thinks men need to learn how to dress up again. His new line, Tommy Hilfiger New York, gave tailoring a looser, more relaxed spin. Blazers in technical fabrics were the stars, light enough to crumple into a bag and sharp enough to pull out for a meeting or dinner. Knit polos, linen-blend jeans, and silk scarves where ties used to be kept the energy casual. It was prep, but younger, cooler, and sexier.

Dsquared2

Subtlety has never been in the Catens’ vocabulary, and their Spring 2026 menswear doubled down on chaos. Sheer neon shirts, cheetah print, parkas, corset-laced blazers, and rugby tops with shoulders wide enough to block traffic all fought for attention. Sequins, studs, and embroidery piled on top. It was messy, excessive, and absolutely on brand.

Todd Snyder

Todd Snyder went straight for sun-drenched escapism. His Havana-inspired lineup was all about camp-collared shirts in stripes, dots, linens, and semi-sheer voiles, paired with trousers cut higher at the waist and jackets with a closer shoulder. Think 1950s Cuban charm spliced with Miami nightlife. The kind of wardrobe built for cocktails, vintage cars, and just enough arrogance to pull off short shorts.

Engineered Garments

Engineered Garments found focus in black and white. Checks, stripes, paisleys, and houndstooth collided but stayed coherent under the monochrome rulebook. Vans-style slip-ons sealed the ska reference while bursts of colour split the collection into two strong halves. It felt like two collections running parallel, but both hit the mark.

Calvin Klein

Veronica Leoni’s sophomore effort for Calvin Klein had more bite than her debut. Menswear leaned into sharp tailoring and crisp minimalism, grounded in the house’s American DNA but elevated with a sense of confidence and polish. It was Calvin as it should be: wearable, direct, and cool without trying too hard.

Coach

Stuart Vevers knows his audience and he knows they like grit with optimism. His menswear riffed on 70s New York and 90s Seattle, layering distressed denim, worn-in leather, and slouchy silhouettes with a softer, lighter palette. It was grunge made to feel like a fresh start rather than a throwback.

Off-White

IB Kamara’s New York return for Off-White was a graffiti-drenched reminder that streetwear still has teeth. Menswear came in crystal-studded denim, second-skin knits, sheer button-downs, and colour-blocked tailoring built for speed. It was bold, brash, and unapologetically New York. Virgil’s legacy is safe in Kamara’s hands, even as he rewrites it in his own language.

Cos

Cos did what Cos does best, but sharper. Karin Gustafsson pushed a minimal wardrobe into something more sculpted with coats that cinched slightly at the waist, silk layers tucked under leather jackets, and heritage checks made modern. Menswear balanced softness with structure, proving quiet clothes can still have presence.