For a hot second, it looked like the suit was going to be the next DVD player. Dead, dusted, and awkward to explain to Gen Z. But 2025’s fashion calendar had other plans. At the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter menswear shows in Paris, Milan, London, and New York, the suit didn’t just stage a comeback – it showed up shirtless, sleeveless, leopard-printed, beach-ready, and occasionally embroidered with origami birds. The message was clear: the suit isn’t dying. It’s evolving. And it’s finally having fun again.

So, what should a suit look like in 2025?

Hermès AW25
 

Start with the silhouette. It's less corporate clone, more expressive avatar. Blazers have gone soft – think dropped shoulders, slouchy structure, and sleeves that don’t end where you expect. Trousers come pleated, baggy, and breezy – less “Wall Street shark” and more “Off-duty poet with a skincare routine.” Shirtless suiting is in. Vests, harnesses, turtlenecks, and the occasional mesh crop top are all fair game underneath. Or nothing at all.

Tom Ford Cashmere Suede Sartorial Blazer
 

Fabrics have entered their experimental era. Leather is no longer reserved for outerwear – it’s full suits now. So is suede. So is denim. Linen is back but it’s slick, sculpted, and clearly moisturised. Colour? Say goodbye to boring navy. Say hello to pistachio, oxblood, sand, lilac, and the occasional iridescent finish. Monochrome is clean, but tonal layering is cleaner.
 

The new suit is a vibe, not a uniform. It’s less about dressing to impress and more about dressing to express. With that spirit in mind, here’s a stylish, slightly unhinged breakdown of who did what – and why the modern suit is less about boardroom boredom and more about main character energy.

Hermès: Coastal Cool to Luxe Utility

Hermès SS25
 

The Hermès man went from sipping cocktails in Capri to quietly conquering the conference room. Véronique Nichanian’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection dialled down formality for what she called "coastal elegance" – sleeveless leather jackets, high-water wide-leg trousers, and delicate pastel layers (lavender leather shirts, neckerchiefs, even sandals that whispered money).
 

Come Fall/Winter 2025, however, Nichanian brought the suit back like it was a pleasure, not a punishment. The colour palette was fifty shades of brown (bronze, coffee, lead, prunoir) with injections of vanilla and celadon. The suiting was sparse but statement-making: a double-breasted 'narrow-arrow' suit paired with a crisp tie, another rendered entirely in beige suede. Parkas, bombers, and duffels ruled the outerwear game – each sharply cut, subtly stitched, and trimmed in leather.

Hermès AW25
 

Accessories did the heavy lifting. Triangular duffle bags, oversized silk scarves, balaclavas, and even silver ear-cuffs added a sense of cool eccentricity. Nichanian’s new-age power dressing doesn't beg for attention – it reclines into it.

Tom Ford: From Rockstar Excess to Psycho Chic
 

Peter Hawkings brought Tom Ford into its party-boy prime for Spring/Summer 2025. Think pastel tuxedos, cracked patent loafers, gold tailoring, and fringe scarves doubling as ties. Every look could soundtrack a Mick Jagger afterparty. Sequins? Check. Leopard jacquards? Obviously. Nothing subtle, nothing apologetic.

Tom Ford AW25
 

But Fall/Winter 2025 under new creative director Haider Ackermann marked a tonal shift. The silhouettes went sleek, the tailoring sharper, the hedonism more controlled. Pinstripes, sharp banker collars, and clean double-breasted blazers whispered American Psycho but make it fashion. One electric-blue suit looked ready to headline a Bowie tribute concert. Sequinned pieces remained (because Timothée Chalamet needs options), but were paired with structured overcoats and leather stovepipes. The message: sensual, not sleazy. If Ford's old man was a peacock, the new one is a panther.

Thom Browne: Wonderland Tailoring, With Origami On Top

 

Thom Browne Corduroy Unstructured Hector Sport Coat
 

Nobody warps the rules of tailoring like Thom Browne. His Spring 2025 presentation was part runway, part dinner party, part social experiment. Forty-five guests, dressed in exaggerated preppy couture (white leather trenches, seersucker suits, boucle skirts), sat down to a meal instead of walking a catwalk. It was fashion theatre, and Browne was the host.

Thom Browne Wool Classic Sport Coat
 

For Fall/Winter 2025, Browne fully leaned into the surreal. The show opened with a flurry of origami cranes and models dressed in tailored coats that ballooned like wearable sculpture. Traditional windowpane checks and tweeds were twisted into new proportions. Coats devoured their wearers. Jackets morphed into blazers with impossible collars. Prep-school staples were defamiliarised until they became something else entirely – wearable satire with impeccable craftsmanship.

Gucci, BOSS, Paul Smith: Tailoring on Its Day Off

Gucci, in its creative limbo pre-Sabato De Sarno, played it safe for Fall 2025. The suits were solid, the turtlenecks sparkled, and the vinyl carcoats felt nostalgic. Less directional, more detox.
 

Hugo Boss, meanwhile, threw its tie out the window. The Spring 2025 collection was dubbed "Out of Office," featuring linen suits with no shoulder pads, drawstring trousers, and even yoga mats as props. It was gym-to-boardroom fantasy with zippered shirts and sleeveless waistcoats standing in for classic tailoring.

Paul Smith went archive diving and came back with denim-like suiting, oddball pocket placements, and blazers that looked like they’d just been shrugged off a street photographer in the ’60s. Think five-pocket trousers in posh wool and intentionally mismatched sets. Smith’s stance was clear: loosen the silhouette, keep the swagger.

Accessories, Absurdity, and the Accoutrements of Cool
 

Tom Ford Fringed Crystal-Embellished Crocheted Scarf
 

What’s a suit without a little spice? Designers across the board used accessories and unexpected styling to flip the script. Hermès paired its cropped trousers with gladiator sandals. Tom Ford used sequin scarves as ties. Prada sent out leather weekender bags so big they required gym training. Louis Vuitton’s pastel trunks could double as studio apartments.
 

Coach brought out comically oversized totes. Bottega Veneta had leather backpacks in candy pink and chrome. Dior Men, not to be left behind, threw rosettes and silk bows onto lapels like prom night gone rogue. Even the mini bag was pronounced dead, replaced by huge leather satchels, camping-style water bottles, and keychains shaped like lobsters.

The 2025 Suit: A Vibe, Not a Uniform

Tom Ford AW25
 

Ultimately, this year’s suit revival isn’t about resurrecting corporate dress codes. It’s about play. It’s about power dressing with mischief in its eyes. Whether it’s the hyper-glam of Ford, the quietly luxe leanings of Hermès, or the acid-trip theatricality of Browne, menswear’s old faithful has shape-shifted into a whole new beast. Formality is no longer stiff. Structure isn’t sacred. The modern suit is a blank canvas – and in 2025, everyone’s colouring outside the lines.

Thumbnail Credits - @ysl @anthonyvaccarello