If denim were a food, it’d be a sandwich. The humble, reliable sandwich—adaptable, timeless, and, in the hands of the right chef, capable of surprising complexity. But just like your go-to Subway, even the classics need an update once in a while, which is where Crystal Henricksen, the Head of Denim Design at GAP, comes in. Her job? Reinvent a fabric that’s been around since before anyone cared about calories—or fashion week, for that matter—fancy sandwiches, all while ensuring we all still fit into our jeans. No pressure, Crystal.
Today, denim is more than just a piece of fabric; it’s a cultural touchstone that has effortlessly evolved from the rough-and-tumble workwear of 19th-century miners to the centrepiece of haute couture. It's what you wear when you want to channel James Dean or bring out your inner 2000s Britney and Justin at the AMAs—because nothing says ‘icon’ like head-to-toe denim.
A Little Denim History
Denim dates back to 1873 when Levi Strauss teamed up with tailor Jacob Davis to patent work pants made from indigo-dyed fabric. Designed for durability, these jeans were stitched for miners and cowboys (aka the original blue-collar chic). The term "denim" is borrowed from the French ‘serge de Nîmes’, and like all good imports, it was given a cooler, shorter name for mass appeal.
In frame: Guns N Roses
For decades, denim stayed on its workhorse track, but by the 1950s, things got rebellious. Enter the leather jacket-wearing, cigarette-smoking bad-boy aesthetic. Denim became a symbol of teenage rebellion and youthful angst—basically, the sartorial equivalent of breaking curfew. Fast forward to the ’80s, and denim was stonewashed, acid-washed, and oversized within an inch of its life.
Now, Levi’s may have built the foundation, but GAP, founded in 1969, took denim from workwear to everyday staple. Go back in time and you’ll find the company was practically born in a pair of jeans. GAP started as a place to sell denim and records (for the "cool" kids, obviously), capitalising on the fabric’s post-1950s boom. By the time GAP came along, denim was on the brink of becoming a staple in every closet, like how sweatpants are today, and GAP, with its every-size, every-style promise, took that denim revolution mainstream.
Crystal Henricksen: Denim’s Modern-Day Architect
Crystal Henricksen
Henricksen’s job at GAP, today? Keep denim fresh. Not exactly easy when you’re dealing with a fabric that’s already seen everything from gold mines to fashion runways. But as she says, “Denim gives people a way to dress up or dress down—it’s versatile and durable.” It’s this balance that has kept denim in play for over a century, but reinventing it each season? That’s where the magic happens.
For 2024, denim is embracing its oversized roots—think bigger, baggier, and bolder. Henricksen reveals that GAP’s new collection includes wide-leg jeans, barrel shapes, and horseshoe cuts, reviving that beloved ’90s vibe. “It’s all about discovery,” she says, which, honestly, sounds like a great excuse to shop for more jeans.
What keeps denim in style after all these years?
Crystal Henricksen: It’s the ultimate wardrobe essential. It’s versatile and durable, which means it can dress up or dress down, and it never really goes out of style. GAP has been making denim for over 50 years, and we’ve always designed with the idea that a great pair of jeans should last you a lifetime. Denim is comfortable, it doesn’t wear out easily, and it’s seasonless—you can wear it all year round.
What’s the current denim trend?
CH: Trends like grunge-inspired distressed jeans from the '90s and wide-legged hip-hop styles are making a comeback, with a big focus this season on baggy fits. We’re even testing out super baggy denim that our customers love. This season is all about denim discovery, encouraging customers to experiment with their style and find what feels best for them.
What do you think will be the next big trend in denim?
CH: You will see a lot of baggier and looser fits that hit current 90s revival trends. Denim pieces that will surely give you a retro feel. With a wide range of washes and rises, we’re excited for our customers of all ages to experiment with the trend and find the style that works for them.
Are there any new denim fabrics or technologies that Gap is working on?
CH: We’re introducing a greater focus on utility with new cargo details, extra pockets, novelty fabrics, and hardware detailing. Our emphasis is on loose-fitting denim with fresh leg shapes like baggy, barrel, and horseshoe silhouettes. As we transition from lightweight summer styles to more structured fall looks, you’ll see emotional influences reflected in new rinse washes, textured blacks, studding, and innovative proportions, as well as denim jackets and jean pairings.
Troye Sivan in GAP
What makes Gap’s denim design unique compared to other brands? What are some must-have denim staples?
CH: Our designs prioritise the customer, so you get jeans that feel like they were made just for you—perfect fits that last a lifetime. Our denim jackets only get better with age, and our outfits stand the test of time. We offer a range of fits and sizes so everyone can find what works best for them. Personally, I believe every wardrobe should have a solid pair of jeans and a crisp white tee. And let’s not forget our Icon Denim Jacket—it’s a must-have staple!
How have consumer preferences for denim changed recently, particularly in terms of fit, style, and sustainability?
CH: Lately, we’re seeing a big shift toward looser, baggier fits for both women and men. Denim skirts are also making a comeback, and there’s a growing interest in gender-neutral and unisex styles. Our customers often mix and match our men’s and women’s denim collections, which is great to see. We’ve introduced various new denim skirts in different washes, fits, and hems to cater to this demand. I love our Men’s ’90s Loose jeans for a more oversized fit.
How has street style influenced high-fashion denim? Can you provide examples of how streetwear elements are incorporated?
CH: Absolutely, street style plays a significant role in influencing denim trends. It’s often seen as a form of self-expression, and because of its versatility, denim has become integral to street style, even making its way onto fashion runways. Whether it’s voluminous clothing like loose jackets and baggy pants or more structured pieces like shirts and blazers, these street-style elements are being incorporated into high-fashion denim.
How are designers innovating with layering and styling denim? What are the latest trends?
CH: One of the most popular trends in layering denim is going all-denim from head to toe, which we absolutely love. For fall, GAP will offer a range of denim apparel—tops, dresses, jackets, and more—to pair with your denim bottoms. When layering denim, I recommend playing with different textures or washes to create a more dynamic look.
Does denim’s distinct look make it easier or harder for designers to keep it fresh and innovative?
CH: Denim is one of the most timeless fabrics, so while we constantly innovate with new washes and silhouettes, it will always be in style. There’s always something new to experiment with—like this season’s ultra baggy and barrel trends. We aim to design around these new trends while keeping our classic assortment fresh.
Denim Is Big, Bold, and Back In 2024
Dior Homme FW24
In 2024, denim is in its maximalist era again. Think big, because oversized, baggy jeans are the fashion world’s way of saying “comfort first but make it fashion.” Designers like JW Anderson at Loewe are offering up wide-leg jeans that look like your favourite pyjamas but with a runway twist. Paired with tailored blazers, these voluminous jeans create a perfect high-low mix.
On the flip side, dark-wash denim is having a moment again—the kind of denim you can wear to brunch and still look like you have your life together. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Versace are championing head-to-toe dark denim looks that scream “I take my jeans seriously,” with Pharrell’s third showcase at Louis Vuitton going full denim on denim in its Americana-inspired collection from earlier this year.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spring-Summer 2025
Skinny jeans? Apparently making a comeback, as per Maison Margiela MM6 and its SS25 showcase, with quite a bit of stressed, skinny jeans on display, that too in public. Designers are also playing with new textures and shapes. Denim with pleats, pin tucks, and trouser-like creases? Yes, please. Jeans are no longer relegated to the ‘casual’ corner; they’re showing up in sophisticated looks ready to hit the town.
Ultimately, denim remains a canvas for self-expression. Whether you’re into blimp-inspired oversized trends or opting for slimmer dark washes, denim’s a fabric that invites experimentation, whether you’re dressing up or down. It is simple, yet complex. Timeless, yet always evolving. Just like a really good sandwich, it’s what you crave—always delicious, whether you’re eating it in a Michelin-star restaurant or kicking back on the couch.
