There are fragrances that smell good, and then there’s Oud — a scent that feels like something far deeper. Smoky, rich, and deeply sensual. Of ancient rituals, midnight prayers, royal courts, desert winds, and decades of quiet fermentation inside the heart of a tree, there’s a reason why luxury houses like Christian Dior, Chopard, Tom Ford and more have some of their bestselling perfumes with Oud. Derived from an Arabic word which also means wood, oud is one prestigious ingredient in the global fragrance industry. Safe to say, Out’s growing popularity in the fragrance industry  

A History That Goes Way Back 

Oud (pronounced ood) is one of nature’s most prized, aromatic and rare offerings. While the West is just now waking up to Oud’s magic, it’s been an essential part of Indian, Arab, and Southeast Asian culture for thousands of years. Thousands of years ago, royal women used it for its aromatic and therapeutic properties. In India, Oud’s story begins in the lush forests of Assam, where ancient tribes first began harvesting Agarwood. “Oud may be synonymous with Middle Eastern luxury today, but its earliest roots lie in India. Assam has been home to Aquilaria trees for centuries, and our connection to it goes beyond commerce—it’s cultural,” says Abdulla Ajmal, CEO Ajmal Group. The foundation of the Ajmal group was laid in the 50s when Abdulla’s grandmother started trading Oud oil from India to the Gulf countries and that’s what shaped the success of the house decades later.

It found a natural home in Ayurvedic medicine and spiritual rituals. Later, during the Mughal era, it became a staple of royal perfumery, used in attars, rituals, and even burned as incense in palaces and mosques. In fact, Arabs discovered the aroma and allure of Oud on their visits to India for trade purposes thousands of years ago. In cities like Kannauj in Uttar Pradesh, often called the Grasse of the East, Oud remains a cornerstone of artisanal fragrance-making. “I think India has a strong case to reclaim its place in this narrative—not just as a source, but as a storyteller,” adds Abdulla.  

The Poetic Process 

It takes years for a tree to produce Oud, and even then, only a small percentage of trees naturally develop it. It comes from the Aquilaria tree or agarwood, native to Southeast Asia. But here’s the twist–not every tree produces Oud. “It’s only when the tree is naturally infected by a particular mold does it produce the dark, fragrant resin we extract. That is why real Oud is so rare and precious,” explains Abdulla. 

That resin-soaked heartwood is what’s known as Agarwood. When distilled, it becomes Oud oil—dark, complex, and rare. The extraction process is painstaking, traditional, and labour-intensive, often involving slow distillation methods passed down for generations. “It’s a slow process that can take up to a week for a single batch. We make sure to harvest responsibly and control the process to make sure that the end product in the bottle is pure and worthy of its name,” adds Abdulla. 

Add to that the growing global demand, dwindling natural resources, and international trade regulations around wild Agarwood, it’s enough to understand the reason behind its exclusivity and prestige. No wonder it’s called liquid gold.  

The Oud Renaissance 

If you’ve walked through a Middle Eastern souk, you’ve probably smelled Oud burning on charcoal — rising like sacred smoke from ornate bakhoor burners. It’s been a symbol of hospitality and luxury in the Gulf. However, the ingredient that find its origin in India and parts of Southeast Asia, what drove the immense popularity of Oud? “It’s about time, isn’t it? Oud has been a well-kept secret in our part of the world for generations. It is rich, complex, full of character,” says Abdulla. 

While it’s always been revered across the Middle East and Asia, the global market is now waking up to its hypnotic charm. Yves Saint Laurent was the first international brand to launch an Oud perfume called M7 in 2002. While it was discontinued later, Tom Ford followed suit and launched Oud Wood in 2007. And when luxury international brands started incorporating Oud into their signature collections, the world took notice, and it soon became a celebrity favourite. “What’s interesting is that people are no longer intimidated by its depth; they’re embracing it. We’ve been working with Oud for over seven decades, and seeing the world fall in love with it now only reaffirms what we’ve always known,” he adds. 

It’s true that Oud in scents is bold, intense and something that’s loved by everyone. What contributes to its magnetic charm, apart from its exclusivity? Oud doesn’t smell like one thing — it smells like many things. Smoky, leathery, woody, sometimes even sweet. It evolves as you wear it. “It’s unforgettable and it doesn’t play it safe; it makes you feel something but always addictive. It leaves a trail that people remember,” says Abdulla. 

Oud has the power to keep you hooked no matter what your fragrance personality is like. It’s a classic but also helps the wearer make a personal statement, and perhaps that adds to its growing popularity. “There’s also this idea of Oud being personal. No two oils smell exactly alike; they change depending on age, origin, even how they’re distilled. That uniqueness makes Oud deeply intimate, almost like a scent fingerprint. And in a world chasing individuality, nothing is more desirable than that,” concludes Abdulla.  

More and more people today are gravitating toward Oud, not just as a trend, but as a kind of olfactory signature. In an era where grooming is as much about expression as hygiene, Oud offers a sense of story, depth, and character. 

A Scent Worth Exploring 

Whether you’re discovering Oud for the first time or returning to it with more mature senses, there’s something deeply satisfying about it. It’s not just about smelling good, it’s about wearing history, about embodying the spirit of ancient woods, distant rituals, and modern confidence.