Tucked in the bustling suburb of Bandra stands Veronica's, a delightful sandwich soap that has the city in its thrall ever since it opened. If you push yourself a little more and take a staircase at Veronica's you'll enter the whimsical world of the chef Hussain Shahzad, Papa's, a 12-seater fine-dining space that will leave you mesmerised but not intimidated. With aesthetics that eerily resemble the Bombay houses of the 80s, and a culinary adventure that's fun and experimental without being edgy, Papa's promises you an unforgettable fine-dining experience, without its concomitant formality. You don't have to suit up and brood about disturbing the hallowed silence. It's a space where you can throw all your inhibitions, where conversations flow as you surrender yourself to the culinary adventure dished out by Shahzad and his team. We talk to the award-winning chef about his newest baby, that's making all the right noise in the country's fine dining scene.

What inspired you to create Papa's, a 12-seater exclusive fine dining restaurant in the heart of Bombay? 

Over the years, Sameer, Yash (founders of Hunger Inc. Hospitality), and I have worked in fine-dining establishments and always had the idea of opening a fine dining-restaurant. We were just waiting for the right time, opportunity, and space. When we acquired the space that once housed Jude Bakery, we saw it as the perfect opportunity to create something exceptional. Inspired by the shophouse restaurant concept common in Southeast Asia, where the ground floor is a restaurant and the upper floor is the chef’s residence, we reimagined this arrangement. Instead of making it the chef’s home, we wanted to capture the feeling of dining in the chef’s personal space, creating an intimate and welcoming vibe. 

How did your experience with other critically acclaimed establishments like The Bombay Canteen, O Pedro, and Veronica help you in imagining the concept of Papa's?

It all began with The Bombay Canteen, where we introduced approachable and accessible dishes that highlighted India's regional flavours, sparking a trend in optimizing regional cuisine. Then came O Pedro, a tribute to the vibrant culture of Goa and its Portuguese influences, further expanding our culinary horizons. Last year (in February 2023), we introduced Veronica’s, a unique concept blending the charm of a sandwich shop with the personality of a cocktail bar. Our goal was to create a space that feels like being welcomed into someone's home in Bandra. Picture walking through the bustling Veronica’s, climbing the stairs, and entering a space filled with amusement, wonder and delight. A space designed to offer fine dining without the usual stiffness and intimidation.

How does Papa's break the perception of fine dining in the country?

We wanted to replace formality with comfort, creating an environment where guests can truly relax and enjoy their meals. That’s how Papa’s was born – an intimate 12-seater chef’s counter restaurant where we take you on a dining adventure that is Indian in its soul and surprising in spirit. We realized that fine dining is often seen as boring and stiff. We wanted to maintain the quality of the food and experience but without a formal atmosphere. Papa’s is about enjoying great food and cocktails in a fun, relaxed space – breaking the rules associated to traditional fine dining. 

How do you think the rise of such intimate dining/bar spaces is changing the culinary landscape in India? 

The landscape of fine dining is undergoing a transformative shift, with a notable trend towards creating a more approachable and relaxed dining experience. Traditionally associated with formal settings, contemporary fine dining establishments like Papa’s are redefining their approach. The emphasis is on offering a casual ambiance while delivering exceptional cuisine, allowing guests to enjoy an exciting culinary experience in a warm and friendly environment. Innovative menus incorporating familiar elements, showcasing the chef’s skill in elevating well-known flavours. 

What inspired you to go ahead with the open kitchen concept at Papa's?

Additionally, open kitchen concepts provide transparency, allowing diners to witness the culinary process and fostering a connection between chefs and guests. Service styles are evolving towards a more informal and engaging approach, contributing equally to creating a memorable experience.

How do you balance the intimacy of a small space with the demands of a bustling restaurant? 

At Papa’s, we’re all about blending the intimacy of a small space with the lively vibe of a bustling restaurant. We want it to feel like a dinner party at a friend’s house — warm, welcoming, yet fun & lively. 

The small space helps create a cozy atmosphere where everyone feels connected, but our team (and our singalong playlist) assures that it stays fun and energetic. We aim to make every guest feel like they’re at a friend’s home, with personalized service that makes each visit special. This approach helps us balance the close-knit feel of the space with the excitement and energy of a busy dining scene. 

How do you approach crafting a cocktail menu that complements the intimate atmosphere of your space? 

When designing a cocktail menu for our intimate chef’s counter restaurant, we focus on creating drinks that enhance the cozy atmosphere and complement our food. Our menu features cocktails that playfully match the flavours of our food. For example, the Papa’s Hut is our fun spin on the classic Bloody Mary. It’s like a “drinkable” pizza, with homemade marinara sauce, garlic, herbs, and a splash of vodka. We also offer drinks with unexpected ingredients like clam juice, fenugreek, and charred capsicum. 

5) There has also been a rise in cocktail-centered bars, where the main focus is on cocktails. Mostly bars prioritised on food and cocktails were an afterthought.

People are increasingly seeking a well-rounded experience that includes both exceptional food and thoughtfully crafted cocktails. This trend shows that diners and drinkers alike are looking for more than just good food or great drinks — they want a complete experience where both elements are harmoniously integrated and celebrated.