Gymkhana clubs are like the old-timey paintings you see in the museum, frozen in a specific moment in the past. On the surface, it’s hard not to see Gymkhana club members as the “let them eat cake” villains of a country’s colonial past. But that perhaps doesn’t paint the whole picture.  

The term "Gymkhana" has its roots in the Persian word jamat-khana, meaning "a place of assembly" or "a meeting place," signifying them as glittering centres of British social life in colonial India. Existing in a bubble, catering to a world of polo matches, tennis courts, high-society dinners, and no open-footwear people. From Mumbai's Bombay Gymkhana, founded in 1875, to Pune’s Turf Club, these clubs have survived empires, wars, and even the seismic shift of India’s independence. On one hand, they embody the worst excesses of British elitism, discrimination against brown folks and snooty dress codes once reigned supreme. On the other hand, they are cultural relics, offering a window into the past that few other institutions can match.  

Gymkhanas, the old guard of India’s elite social circles, were designed to endure. Originally, Gymkhanas were exclusive havens for British expatriates—offering them an escape from the chaotic streets of India, where billiards, horse racing, and stiff upper lips replaced the clamor of local life.

Today, the Gymkhana scene has evolved. Where once British gatekeeping reigned supreme, today, elite Indians frequent these clubs, where a typical evening is spent lounging at “The Club.” Yet, these institutions remain a symbol of India’s shifting social structure. Though Indians were granted access to Gymkhanas in the mid-20th century, the culture within them remained rooted in nostalgia—menus still feature cucumber sandwiches, and dress codes are strictly jackets and ties. Gymkhanas have now morphed into coveted status symbols, embodying old-money prestige even as the world outside indulges in five-star hotels, nightclubs, and Michelin-star dining.

Interestingly, Gymkhanas haven’t become relics of a bygone era. While they retain their old-world charm, many—including Pune’s Turf Club—have adapted, albeit slowly, to modern tastes. Hosting everything from high-end weddings to art exhibitions, they now attract younger crowds. Dress codes have relaxed (a little), and the menus have expanded to include fusion dishes alongside their classic offerings.

As much as Gymkhanas represent a colonial past, they symbolize how India has inherited and transformed that history. Today, they walk the fine line between exclusivity and accessibility, tradition and modernity. And in the case of Pune’s Turf Club, the restoration has provided a much-needed facelift.

Pune’s Turf Club: An Era Rediscovered

If you’ve lived in Pune long enough, you know the Turf Club is an architectural and quite literal landmark, so to speak. Established in 1830, the club has witnessed the city morph from its Maratha heartland origins into Maharashtra’s IT hub. Known colloquially as "The Racecourse," the Turf Club, in its original avatar, was a glamorous haven where the elite gathered to gamble on thoroughbreds or engage in polite conversations about the weather. Perhaps a scene out of a Victorian-era Gossip Girl episode, with grand horse races, equally grand displays of wealth, and drama, but with more monocles.

However, time took its toll. The stately grandeur of the Turf Club began to fade, its walls slowly losing their battle against the elements. But the restoration of the Turf Club, spearheaded by Yohan and Michelle Poonawalla, now promises to breathe new life into this emblem of Pune’s colonial past.

“Our goal was always to retain the soul of the club while giving it a modern facelift,” says Michelle Poonawalla. Her vision extended beyond aesthetic fixes. The club's landscape was meticulously groomed, the verandahs now offer a serene place to watch the sunset, and the grand ballroom—with its restored wooden ceilings and chandeliers—feels like something straight out of a Gatsby novel.

What makes this revival particularly fascinating is its relevance to Pune’s broader social fabric today. The Turf Club, like many Gymkhanas around India, is finding its feet in a country that is trying obsessively to move away from its colonial past and re-establish its own identity. Today, the club isn’t just a hub for racing aficionados but a venue for weddings, social gatherings (if you’re invited), and a place where younger generations are discovering the appeal of a well-mixed martini and discussions on perhaps polo matches, on a Sunday afternoon. Country clubs have a far more distinct charm of their own, much different from many new-age clubs seen in cities like Mumbai. Think sneakers vs. boots here.

Interview with Michelle Poonawalla

The Poonawalla name is well-known in Indian horse racing. What are some of your earliest and favourite memories of the Pune Turf Club?

Michelle Poonawalla: My earliest memories of the Pune Turf Club are filled with the thrill of the races and the excitement of the horses. As a child, I remember going to the races, spending time with family and friends, and celebrating the victories of our horses. Those moments are deeply cherished.

What was your vision for blending heritage with modern design in the renovation? How did you decide what to keep from the past and what to make new?

Our vision was to honour the club's rich history while also providing a modern and comfortable experience for its members. We wanted to preserve the club's character and charm, selecting key elements from the past—such as the design of the old doors and some key furniture pieces—and incorporating them into the design. Simultaneously, we introduced modern amenities and finishes to elevate the experience.

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced during the renovation?

One of the biggest challenges was balancing the preservation of the club’s heritage with the need for modern updates. We had to ensure that any changes were respectful of the club’s history. Another challenge was completing the project on a tight timeline. Since it was a running club, we had to renovate sections to minimize disturbance for the members.

What are your favourite design elements in the renovated club? Are there any specific areas you’re especially proud of?

My favourite area is the new lounge bar, where I could create a space of warmth and style. I also love the restaurant’s brasserie look. It was essential to me that the spaces feel inviting and full of light.

How do you see the role of the Turf Club changing in Pune’s cultural and social life after the renovations?

The Turf Club will continue to play a vital role in Pune's cultural and social life. The renovations have made the club even more attractive for social events, cultural gatherings, and weddings. More youngsters are now keen to visit, and it’s become a popular wedding destination.

What has been the most rewarding part of this project? How has it affected you personally?

Seeing the club come back to life has been the most rewarding part. The project has revitalized this historic landmark, preserving its charm while ensuring it remains a central part of Pune’s cultural and social fabric. For me, it's also been an opportunity to contribute to the legacy of Indian horse racing, something that’s close to our family’s heart.