Man’s World decodes the best shows across the fashion runways of the world. Here are our top picks of what designers have in store for you this Fall Winter.
Sober and sophisticated is how Bottega Veneta’s Fall Winter 2017 collection can best be described. With a huge focus on outerwear, the belted coats stand out as the hero piece. Creative Director Tomas Maier explores a formal approach with elegant tailoring, double-breasted suits, lurex sweaters and narrow trousers. The look is completed with oversized bow ties and fingerless gloves. The Italian brand has kept it clean yet stylish this season.
The Brooks Brothers
Fall Winter 2017 collection places emphasis on ‘comfort’ being the new ‘luxury’. The collection is divided in two sub-categories: the Mainline collection consists of an assortment of timeless classics in rich textures and subtle hues like mustard, teal, bottle green and burgundy. Navy blue being the focus, the range is big on layering and blending rich and casual colours to achieve a rustic yet sophisticated look. The Red Fleece collection, on the other hand, takes on festive clothing with the focus on chinos, fun shirts and broken suits in tartans, grass green and burgundy.
The brand continues what it does best – a no-fuss clean and spiff range of clothing for their consumer. What was different this time around was a short film by Ivan Cotroneo. It showed the construction of a suit in reverse, from the finish back to the start. Exceptional to feel and touch, the suits and coats in cashmere, silk, chinchilla help understand their signature Kei deconstructed design. Predominantly in a dark colour palette, everything is wellfitted this season, with some interesting design elements like a small pocket for your mobile phone. Elisabetta Canali, the third generation representative, sums up the true Canali allure — luxurious craftsmanship.
Sticking with one of the strongest trends over the last few seasons, the Corneliani range features the marriage of tailored garments with sportswear. The colour palette ranges from deep blue and brown to burgundy. The iconic jackets are now available with customization in a wide array of materials and colours. From bomber and leather jackets to classic ones, the range allows the consumer to dress up for any occasion. Versatile in its approach, the brand is best suited for the man on the go.
Diesel Black Gold
Creative Director Andreas Melbostad has travelled back in time for inspiration this season. The cult movie Revenge Of The Ninja served as a backdrop to which the Fall Winter 2017 collection unfurled. The movie, set in Japan in the 1980s, led the silhouettes that followed the mood of that era. Black is omnipresent and seen across a variety of kimono-style jackets alongside cropped and long textured jackets. The brand masters a threeway of retro, military and sports-wear. Volume is precise and controlled, giving it a modern yet edgy feel. Black is beautiful and Diesel Black Gold continues to make it sassy.
Dior Homme’s fall runway saw a merger between the club culture and haute couture tailoring. Kris van Assche set out to reinvent the suit in a way that it would appeal the street wear generation. Channeling the early 90s vibe, his Fall Winter 2017 showing had a bit of a rebellious attitude and saw a lot of fitted jackets with loose cropped pants and oversized glasses. The main focus this season has been to create something that is cool and chic at the same time, and is targeted at the youth.
This show, which was held in a huge hangar, set a precedent for what was to follow. Zegna is one of the largest and most successful luxury brands; the challenge is to make their rich heritage relevant to today’s consumer. Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori managed this with élan by giving the classic suit a sporty spin. Jogger trousers were layered with turtlenecks and jackets. There was a beautiful palette comprising of orange, olive, purple and vicuna. The models also spanned all age groups, perhaps as an ode to the varied consumer profile of the brand. Sartori gives great impetus to his footwear – a carry forward from his last gig – and one can look forward to “uni-monks”. Overall, Zegna succeeds in offering the killer combination of luxury and comfort.