What exactly makes a watch 'oversized'? While there isn't a strict cut-off point that defines it, the trend toward larger timepieces started gaining momentum in the late 1990s and exploded in the early 2000s, particularly with brands like Panerai leading the charge. Watches measuring 44mm and above began catching people's attention, pushing beyond the then-standard 37-39mm width that had defined men's watches for years.
By the mid-2000s, the average size of men's watches had jumped to 45-48mm, with some even going larger. Historically, watches were much smaller—think 35mm—but oversized designs weren't entirely new. We saw the emergence of larger sport watches back in the '70s. However, the early 2000s marked a turning point where bigger became undeniably better, and despite a recent shift towards wearability in the watch world, it's a trend that still holds strong today. Here's a look at some of our best picks from the 45mm-plus segment across the last year:
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar combines iconic design with technical mastery in a commanding 46.2mm stainless steel case. Powered by the IWC 52615 calibre, it boasts an impressive 7-day power reserve alongside a perpetual calendar complication that tracks the date, day, month, year, and moon phase with precision, requiring no adjustment until 2100. The deep blue dial is both functional and striking, featuring four subdials that maintain a clean, balanced aesthetic. Paired with a Santoni calfskin leather strap, this watch blends durability with elegance, making it a standout piece for collectors.
U-Boat Chimera
The U-Boat Chimera returns in 2024 with striking new geometries and a unique striped dial available in black, green, and blue. The bold 46mm AISI 316L steel case is paired with a polished tungsten bezel and the signature external pulling screws, ensuring both durability and style. The two-level dial, with perforations revealing a brushed metal layer beneath, creates a dynamic three-dimensional effect. Powered by the ETA 2824 Top Soigné movement, the watch offers a 38-hour power reserve and features U-Boat's custom brass and tungsten rotor. Limited to 300 pieces per colour, each watch comes with a handcrafted leather strap, making this unconventional yet striking behemoth an exciting proposition for collectors.
Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror
The Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror pushes the boundaries of design and precision with its bold, fully mirrored 45mm titanium case that catches and reflects light from every angle. Powered by the El Primero 9004 calibre, it delivers a 1/100th of a second chronograph and a 50-hour power reserve, showcasing Zenith’s expertise in high-frequency movements. The skeletonized dial reveals the intricate mechanics within, while a mix of brushed and polished surfaces enhances its futuristic look. With 200-meter water resistance, this watch blends rugged performance with striking aesthetics, making it a standout piece for those seeking both technical excellence and visual impact.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M brings together serious dive watch capabilities with sophisticated chronograph functionality. Housed in a robust 45.5mm stainless steel case, this model is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9900, certified to the highest industry standards for precision and magnetic resistance. With a water resistance of 600 meters, a helium escape valve, and a bold blue ceramic dial with orange accents, the watch is as functional underwater as it is stylish on land. The chronograph subdials and date window blend seamlessly into the design, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals the intricate movement. Built for both adventure and everyday wear, this is a timepiece that excels in performance and style.
Breitling Super Avenger B01 Chronograph
The Breitling Super Avenger B01 Chronograph 46 combines imposing presence with Breitling’s signature precision. Housed in a 46mm titanium case, this watch is powered by the Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01, offering an impressive 70-hour power reserve. The bold blue dial features luminescent hands and markers, ensuring legibility in all conditions, while the chronograph functionality adds practicality to its rugged design. Water-resistant to 300 meters, the Super Avenger is built for extreme conditions, with a screw-down crown and unidirectional ratcheted bezel. This powerful timepiece is designed for those who appreciate both style and functionality in an oversized, durable package.
