Best New Watches Of 2019
Best New Watches Of 2019

Our picks from the stunning new timepieces that were launched last month in Geneva at SIHH 2019, the first of the two annual international watch trade shows

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere



The legendary professional Minerva watches from the 1920s and 1930s were conceived for military use and exploration. Inspired by these historic timepieces, the Montblanc 1858 pays tribute to the Minerva Manufacture’s heritage. This year marks the arrival of four new 1858 editions – two new 1858 Automatic models, a 1858 Chronograph and a 1858 Geosphere. The 1858 Geosphere (which is dedicated to the world’s Seven Summit mountaineering challenge, the holy grail of mountaineering adventures) is now also available in this new bronze/ khaki colour scheme. The two new 1858 Automatic models come in a choice of a full-bronze 40mm case (previous versions had a steel case and a bronze bezel) paired with a khaki-green dial, or a steel case with a black dial. The new 1858 Chronograph comes in a 42mm full bronze case with khaki-green dial, providing an ideal backdrop for the bi-compax counters.




Bovet Virtuoso IX



This 46.3mm watch has an Amadeo system, which transforms it into a reversible wristwatch, a pocket watch, or a table clock, without the use of any tools. The case back can be opened simply by applying pressure to the crown. Only the minute hand is centered on the dial. The hour hand is offset at 2 o’clock, and a second hour hand, the 24- hour hand, displays a second time zone at 10 o’clock. A big date indication is on the right of the dial, with the power reserve (10 days) at 8 o’clock. The watch has a new face on the reverse side, with the hours and minutes centred directly over the movement. The bridges are coated with a blue CVD treatment. The movement is regulated by a double face flying tourbillon. The flinqué dial is bathed in blue tones and highlights. The Virtuoso IX is available in red gold, white gold or platinum.




Greubel Forsey Art Piece Edition Historique



Within the 44mm case of this splendid watch, there is a new movement, with a variation on the theme of the Double Tourbillon 30. The 475-part hand-wound movement boasts a 72-hour power reserve. The most eye-catching aspect is the multilevel construction. The small seconds dial is positioned on the same level as the double tourbillon, between 10 and 11 o’clock. The power-reserve indication has large Arabic numerals and a blued steel hand. At 2 o’clock, the offset hours/minutes subdial has been replaced with a titanium dome, featuring a hand-punched background engraved with the finely polished Greubel Forsey key values. The hours are discreetly displayed by a red hand on a separate rotating ring, while the minutes appear on request through an aperture, thanks to a simple press on the crown-fitted pusher. The caseback has the relief-engraved signatures of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. This is a 33-piece limited edition, with the first 11 in platinum and the rest to be made of different materials.




Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar



This innovative watch features a system whereby the power reserve can be extended up to 65 days, by switching it to a standby mode when not worn. This is achieved by slowing down the calibre. A pusher at the 8 o’clock position allows the wearer to easily switch from one frequency to another, depending on activity level. When the watch is on the wrist, the wearer will get the most out of it by keeping it in Active mode, which has 4 days of power reserve. If the watch is to be taken off and left unworn for some time, it can be switched to Standby mode, which runs on a second balance with a drastically reduced frequency. At any point during the Standby mode, it can be switched back to Active mode and reworn, with all its calendar indications perfectly up to date. Additionally, the all-or-nothing construction ensures that the switch is instantaneous, with no lag when transitioning from one mode to the other.




Audemars Piguet Code 11.59



This 41mm model, with an 18k white/pinkgold case has a perpetual calendar that automatically adjusts short months, and adds a day to February each leap year. If worn permanently, it will require an adjustment only in 2100. It has a dark blue aventurine dial and subdials, recalling a star-lit sky. The moon indication (or a flying tourbillon, in another model) is at 6 o’clock. A photographic image of the moon is reproduced through laser engraving and applied on an aventurine disc that subtly matches the design of the dial. The power reserve is 40 hours, and it comes with choices of blue and black alligator straps.




Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel



The unique feature of this 43mm watch is the Westminster carillon minute repeater, which replicates the chime of the famed Big Ben clock tower in London, with a silence-reduction mechanism to optimise cadence. It has a new aesthetic that pairs traditional haut-de-gamme finishing with modern, wearable watches. It uses four sets of gongs and hammers to create the chime to indicate the quarters when the minute repeater is activated. In every instance of the chime, the hour strikes, quarter strikes and minute strikes are seamlessly joined. It also features a perpetual calendar. The pointer-style date indication jumps over the tourbillon aperture, in order to provide the best possible view of it. The openworked dial is produced either in a deepblue grand feu enamel or in a more classic silver-grained version. It is limited to 18 pieces.




IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire



The Spitfire, designed by Reginald J. Mitchell, is one of the most sophisticated developments in the history of aviation. This watch, a tribute to the fighter plane, features a perpetual calendar and is limited to 250 pieces and has a power reserve of seven days. The heavy-duty components of the Pellaton winding are made from wear-resistant ceramic. The perpetual calendar identifies different month lengths and leap years automatically and will work until 2100 without needing any correction. Since all displays are perfectly synchronised, the watch can be easily adjusted via the crown. The double moon display shows the moon in the correct position in the northern and southern hemisphere and takes 577.5 years to require adjustment by one day. The see-through sapphire glass back allows the user to view the highly embellished IWC-manufactured calibre.




Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X



The watch’s case is 42mm and more angular and masculine and less round. It has a distinctive shape-withinshape-within-shape geometry – an X formed by four of the indexes is framed in a rectangle, in turn inside a circle. Clearly visible beats is the FREAK VISION: a super-light balance wheel in silicium, extra-wide, with nickel flyweights and stabilizing micro-blades. The 96-hour power reserve can be read through the back by means of windows, like those in the barrel. The SKELETON X exists in four different satin-finish versions: satin-finish titanium blue, satin-finish titanium black, satin-finish rose gold or matte-finish carbonium gold (carbonium is an aeronautic-grade, superlight material).








Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Edition 47mm



This watch, created by Panerai for its brand ambassador, is a professional diving watch, water-resistant to a depth of 300 metres, with a special case 47mm in diameter that is made of EcoTitanium, a material first introduced in watchmaking by Panerai. It is obtained entirely from recycled titanium. The parts made of this are the case, the device protecting the winding crown, the bezel and also the back, engraved on which is Mike Horn’s signature and an image inspired by the creatures which inhabit our seas. The unidirectional rotating bezel enables the duration of each dive to be calculated, while legibility is guaranteed via green SuperLuminova on the index markers and the large skeleton hands. Also clearly visible are the seconds dial at 9 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock, together with the inscriptions “Panerai Submersible” and “Automatic 300m/1000ft” which are not printed on the dial itself but silk-screened on the sapphire crystal which protects it. The black strap is made of recycled PET, and the special packaging in which the watch is sold is made of recycled materials. The power reserve is three days, and the watch is limited to 19 pieces.




Santos De Cartier Skeleton Noctambule



Alberto Santos-Dumont was a pioneering aviator, who ordered the first modern wristwatch from Louis Cartier in 1904. The new Santos De Cartier collection pays tribute to him, with a variety of timepieces. The Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule has bridges coated with SuperLuminova, for excellent visibility at night – during the day, the pigments are invisible. The night created a sky for Alberto Santos-Dumont to conquer. He envisaged using a floodlight to light his way during his test flights, and thus Cartier casts light on the night sky with the new Skeleton Noctambule. The watch is available in steel, yellow gold and steel, ADLC and pink gold, all with the option of interchangeable QuickSwitch straps. The power reserve is 72 hours.








A Lange & Sohne 1 “25th Anniversary”



The Maison is celebrating the anniversary of the award-winning watch with a “25th Anniversary” edition in white gold, limited to 250 timepieces. Its special features include a deep-blue printed argenté dial with a recess, blue date numerals, a hinged cuvette with an engraving of Lange’s headquarters and a handengraved balance cock with blued lines. The hallmarks they share are an argenté-coloured dial in solid silver with printed deep-blue numerals and hour markers, blue date numerals, and a colour-coordinated blue alligator leather strap with a grey seam. It exhibits a very special engraving: the outsize date with a “25” that symbolises the 25th anniversary. The manually executed lines of the new engraving pattern are blued for the first time and thus stand out with a particularly rich contrast. The power reserve is 72 hours.




Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos



This is the new haute horlogerie piece presented by Girard-Perregaux in 2019. Two complete globes–celestial and terrestrial – serve to mirror a fusional moment. Like the sky, the watch has two faces: day and night. In the absence of a crown, the time and various indications are manually adjusted on the back. This watch, with tourbillon, sky chart and world time complications, is composed of mechanical particles and poetic paradoxes. Offset hours and minutes appear at 12 o’clock, while a tourbillon spins beneath a large black titanium bridge at 6 o’clock. At 3 o’clock, a terrestrial globe serves as a day/night indicator, while a sky chart takes its place at 9 o’clock. The entire scene is staged against a tinted sapphire crystal glass. Invisible in broad daylight, and dotted with luminescent hydroceramic particles, it offers a time-lapse view of the sky by night.




HYT H2O Time Is Fluid



In the latest in the brand’s line of fluidic watches, a first glance at the diamond guilloché decoration on the minute and second discs and the main plate reveal the signature of haute horlogerie. A closer look reveals the offset diffusion of the patterns on the counters. The latter emphasizes the respective rhythms and layering of the time units, as well as the powerhouse represented by the regulating bellows. HYT’s essential design vocabulary is clearly voiced by the H20. Time’s flow is expressed by smooth angles, fluid shaping and virtually no straight lines. The watch comes in two versions – one in 18 carat yellow gold and the other in stainless steel; both are limited editions.




Roger Dubuis Excalibur One-Off


The Excalibur One-off timepiece emulates the V-shape geometry of Lamborghini engines. The double flying tourbillon is assembled on two planes, creating a 90° angle between them and linked with a differential. At 12 o’clock, there is a double disc jumping hour, with one hand for the minutes and a jumping hours. The movement is framed by two sapphire components symbolizing the rev counters of a car. Further tribute is paid to the Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar with a function selector reminiscent of a supercar mode selector which allows the user to choose the watch settings (W = wind the watch, S = set the time). The 47mm case features carbon SMC in the case, flange and bridge, along with a woven carbon casemiddle.






Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpagraphe Chronometre Titanium



An iconic timepiece, the new Kalpa features an integrated chronograph which fits within the contours of its case – a complication that is rare. The functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date. The case features a micro-blasted finish, a technique which consists of blasting minuscule glass beads against the material to mattify the surface. The black and slate-coloured dial is laser-cut and delicately open-worked, with a design which evokes a car radiator grille, which reveals the tonneau-shaped movement underneath. The display is completed with two snailed counters, a semiinstantaneous date window and a small seconds sector with its own hand. As a finishing touch, the timepiece features a rubber strap, in keeping with its modern style, with a titanium folding buckle. It offers a 65-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 30 metres.






Richard Mille Bonbon Collection



This comprises 10 models, each produced in an edition of 30 pieces. Based on three of the brand’s iconic models, these watches offer a passage back to childhood. The Sweets collection comprises four models, all with two-tone ceramic cases that set off their grand feu enamel or black-chromed titanium confections. The Fruit line is a homage to the very concept of sweet temptation, in six flavours: Lemon and Strawberry, Blueberry and Litchi, Kiwi and Cherry. Painted in acrylics and lacquered by hand, the 3,000 miniature sculptures integrated in these compositions stand out from the dials.To further enhance their realism, a ‘sugar coating’ effect was achieved using powdered enamel and the fine sand employed in hourglasses. Tart jelly ribbons, twisty lollipops, candy citrus segments, gumdrops and other surprises are positioned on plates of grade 5 titanium that are machined and skeletonised like horological components.




Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar



In addition to a five-day power reserve, this 42mm watch resists the main magnetic fields of daily life. This model only requires maintenance service once every seven years, rather than the three to five years recommended for a traditional watch. It indicates the date, the day of the week, the month and the phases of the moon while automatically taking into account the variable lengths of months and the leap year cycle, tand requires no date correction before March 1st, 2100, a non-leap year. The “warm white” porcelain finish of its dial is enhanced by facetted riveted hour markers and gold-tone hour, minute and seconds hands. The dial is protected by a domed antiglare sapphire crystal.




Laurent Ferrier Bridge One



With the rectangular Bridge One, Laurent Ferrier marks the launch of a new caliber, especially shaped for this new design. For this industrial inspiration, Laurent Ferrier chose stainless steel as a material. Two lines are presented – an enamel grand feu white dial and a grained slate grey dial. The two versions are swept over by “assegai-shaped” hour and minute hands, and a baton-type seconds hand for the slate grey dial. It is fitted with Honey Timberland leather or Honey alligator strap with Alcantara lining, secured by a pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp. Its water resistance is guaranteed to a depth of 30 metres.








Hermes Arceau L’heure De La Lune



This haute horlogerie watch has two mobile counters gravitating on a meteorite or aventurine dial, revealing mother-of-pearl moons in step with an exclusive module, coupled with a Manufacture Hermès movement. Framed by a white gold case, the mechanics adopt a light, barely-there role. The displays have swapped cardinal points, with the south above and the north below. The horse, representing the origins of Hermès, gallops into the world of dreams. At 12 o’clock, the moon is adorned by a Pegasus created by the “dreamer-designer” Dimitri Rybaltchenko. On the other side, at 6 o’clock, the view of the moon from the northern hemisphere provides a realistic depiction of its surface. The mobile counters displaying the time and date turn weightlessly to reveal the moon discs, while maintaining their horizontal orientation. It is issued in two 100-piece limited editions, and fitted with a matte alligator strap in graphite grey or abyss blue.




Piaget Altiplano



 One of three new watches showed by Piaget at SIHH, the pinkgold 40mm Altiplano – with a grey meteorite dial and a simple distillation of time told in hours and minutes, with a date window at three o’clock – is the standout model. The combination of pink gold with the grey meteorite and pink-gold indices is a step removed from the high-contrast beauty of the 36mm and 41mm models, and showcases the subtle nuances of the meteorite as a material. It is limited to 300 pieces, and the power reserve is 44 hours.






MB&F Horological Machine N˚6 Final Edition



With the rectangular Bridge One, Laurent Ferrier marks the launch of a new caliber, especially shaped for this new design. For this industrial inspiration, Laurent Ferrier chose stainless steel as a material. Two lines are presented – an enamel grand feu white dial and a grained slate grey dial. The two versions are swept over by “assegai-shaped” hour and minute hands, and a baton-type seconds hand for the slate grey dial. It is fitted with Honey Timberland leather or Honey alligator strap with Alcantara lining, secured by a pin buckle or a double blade folding clasp. Its water resistance is guaranteed to a depth of 30 metres.

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