With record-breaking attendance, over 55,000 visitors, and 60 brands on display, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2025 proved that the world’s most important horological event is only getting bigger. This year’s fair leaned into bold creative expression—from a new wave of pastel dials and high-tech ceramics to ultra-complicated grand complications and vintage reissues. Mechanical ingenuity was everywhere, and so was the spectacle.
Below, you’ll find a complete roundup of every new timepiece unveiled at the Salon. That’s over 200 watches, brand by brand, each one catalogued with precision and personality. (Note that minor dial/bracelet changes are not included.)
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne arrived in Geneva this year with a trio of releases that blend technical rigour and artisanal flourish. The standout was the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a stunning dual-complication piece with a black enamel dial and peerless acoustic precision—Lange may be subtle for the most part, but their humongous two-storey mockup of his watch was anything but. They also introduced a limited-edition Odysseus in warm honeygold, finally offering the sporty-elegant line on a matching bracelet. Rounding things out was a more compact, classically styled 1815—now in a svelte 34mm case and fitted with Lange’s 75th in-house calibre.
Minute Repeater Perpetual: Combines minute repeater and perpetual calendar in a platinum case; limited to 50 pieces.
Odysseus Honeygold: 40.5mm sport-elegant model in 18k ‘honeygold’ with brown dial and bracelet; limited to 100 pieces.
1815 (2025 Edition): 34mm three-hander in pink or white gold; features new hand-wound calibre L152.1 with 72-hour power reserve.
Alpina
Alpina kept things classic and compact this year, delivering two strong releases that speak to different ends of their DNA. The Alpiner Extreme Automatic got a cool-toned update in the form of a new Ice Blue dial, adding contemporary flair to a rugged 39mm sport watch. Meanwhile, the Heritage Tropic-Proof brought the brand’s 1960s archival elegance back to life in a refined 34mm handwound format, staying true to the original’s proportions and minimalism. Together, they reflect Alpina’s balance of durability and design nostalgia—without veering into trend-chasing.
Alpiner Extreme Automatic Ice Blue Edition: 39mm cushion case, 200m WR, AL-525 automatic movement with signature triangle-patterned ice blue dial.
Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding: 34mm stainless steel case, AL-480 manual-wind movement (Peseux base), available in black or white dial.
Angelus
Angelus continues its revivalist streak with the Chronographe Télémètre, a gorgeous mono-pusher chronograph that digs deep into the brand’s mid-century heritage. Presented in two steel variants and a third in yellow gold, the 37mm case size marks a return to elegant proportions, while dial textures and curved lugs channel pure 1940s charm. With its crisp detailing and rare in-house movement, the Télémètre cements Angelus’ growing La Fabrique collection as one to watch.
Chronographe Télémètre: 37mm mono-pusher chronograph in steel or yellow gold; powered by the hand-wound A5000 calibre with column wheel and horizontal clutch; available in rose-bronze, titanium grey, or white dial.
Armin Strom
Armin Strom’s 2025 showing was a masterclass in engineering drama, as the indie brand pushed its signature mechanics-led design across three wildly different releases. The Dual Time GMT Resonance returned in a striking monochrome edition with dual independent time zones and a patented resonance clutch, showing off both technical gravitas and visual unity. The One Week Skeleton in titanium took openworking to new extremes, with deeper cut-outs, a conical power reserve, and a 7-day manual movement made for collectors who like their movements on full display. Finally, the Orbit Purple introduced a high-contrast pointer-date complication with a bold fumé dial, showing that even Armin Strom’s date windows come with a twist.
Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition: 39mm manual-wind dual time zone watch with resonance clutch system; monochrome dial, 50-piece limited edition.
One Week Skeleton Titanium: 41mm grade 5 titanium case, fully skeletonised manual-wind movement with 7-day power reserve and conical power reserve mechanism; limited to 100 pieces.
Orbit Purple: 43.4mm DLC-coated case with on-demand pointer date and purple fumé dial; automatic micro-rotor movement with equal force barrel; limited to 20 pieces.
ArtyA
Always the iconoclast, ArtyA returned with a single, head-turning creation that challenged the very idea of transparency and reflection in watchmaking. The new Purity Wavy HMS Mirror is housed in a flowing, ocean-inspired titanium case, coated with transparent DLC for scratch resistance and sheen. But the real revelation is the one-way mirror caseback—a world first—that reflects the calibre’s skeletonised architecture from below, creating the illusion of infinite depth. At the heart of it all is the Stairway To Heaven movement, a visually poetic, hand-wound calibre suspended in space, beating with serene precision.
Purity Wavy HMS Mirror: 40mm Grade 5 titanium case with one-way mirrored caseback; in-house Stairway To Heaven movement with twin barrels, fine regulation via inertia blocks, and a 72-hour power reserve; limited to 99 pieces.
Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier took a lifestyle-first approach this year, presenting collections that felt warm, wearable, and rooted in daily elegance. The Hampton line saw refined rectangular silhouettes with Art Deco cues and playful materials—quartz-powered, but full of charm. Meanwhile, the Riviera got a shot of adrenaline with four new chronographs, including a bold flyback model that balances sporty edge with retro-coded design. The Clifton Baumatic range continues to mature gracefully, offering mid-century-inspired dress watches with a five-day movement and pared-back case sizes.
Hampton Collection: Includes M0A10795 (silvery opaline dial, blue hands), M0A10760 (black lacquer), M0A10752 (18k rose gold), and colourful variants in bordeaux and navy with diamond-set options.
Riviera Chronograph Collection: Four new models including M0A10828 (gold-tone flyback chrono with telemeter and tachymeter), M0A10827 (black/white sunray dial), and black or blue variants with day-date chronograph.
Clifton Baumatic: Three releases—M0A10802 (rose gold with grained off-white dial), M0A10778 (limited-edition salmon dial), and M0A10771 (blue gradient dial)—all with slimmed 39mm cases and 5-day in-house movements.
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross doubled down on their “circle in a square” design philosophy this year with launches that spanned architectural finesse and gender-inclusive wearability. The new BR-03 Skeleton trilogy—each a limited edition—showcased bold X-shaped movement bridges across ceramic and steel cases, exploring light, transparency, and luminescence in equal measure. Meanwhile, the BR-05 line received a refined 36mm update, offering the popular urban watch in more compact, unisex proportions without losing its instrumental identity. Altogether, the brand’s 2025 novelties reflect a clear commitment to modernist aesthetics and case versatility.
BR-03 Skeleton Trilogy:
Black Ceramic: Transparent dial with green-glow SLN and smoked sapphire crystal.
Grey Steel: Faceted rhodium-plated dial, limited to 250 pieces.
Lum Ceramic: Photoluminescent openworked dial with futuristic green SLN detailing; limited to 250 pieces.
BR-05 36mm Collection: Four new variants (black, grey, mother-of-pearl, ice blue) featuring a redesigned steel case, slimmer proportions, and a 54-hour automatic movement.
Bremont
After last year’s polarising rebrand, Bremont returned to familiar skies with a comprehensive reboot of its aviation roots—the new Altitude collection. The hero MB Meteor leads the charge with a sleeker titanium case and a new BB14 movement, an upgrade over the brand’s past calibres. Complementing it are more compact daily-wear options and a robust chronograph GMT, all housed in Bremont’s signature Trip-Tick case. Most surprising, however, is a new Perpetual Calendar GMT—Bremont’s most complicated watch to date—aiming squarely at brands like IWC with its RAF blue dial and Geneva-made complication module.
Altitude MB Meteor: 42mm titanium update to the MB line; features BB14 movement and redesigned case profile with inner bezel.
Altitude 39 Date: Streamlined 39mm version in 904L steel with central crown and brushed black DLC mid-case barrel.
Altitude Chronograph GMT: 42mm steel case, Trip-Tick design, Sellita SW530 movement with no-date display.
Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT: High-complication piece in RAF blue; features monopusher-controlled GMT globe, Geneva-made perpetual module, and titanium case/bracelet.
BVLGARI
Making its Watches & Wonders debut, Bvlgari made a thunderous statement by fusing record-breaking horology with bold jewellery artistry. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon became the thinnest flying tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85mm thick, showcasing the Maison’s relentless pursuit of finesse and mechanical complexity. On the other end of the spectrum, the Serpenti Aeterna offered a radically distilled vision of the iconic snake, blending high jewellery and horology in sculptural form. These two pieces captured the brand’s dual nature: Roman luxury refracted through Swiss engineering.
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon: 40mm sandblasted titanium case with integrated bracelet, tungsten carbide mainplate, hand-wound BVF 900 calibre; the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch.
Serpenti Aeterna (Pink or White Gold): Diamond-set bangle watch in pink or white gold with hidden clasp, quartz movement, and avant-garde reinterpretation of the Serpenti design.
Cartier
Cartier’s 2025 releases were a masterclass in legacy reinvention—reviving legends, refining icons, and flexing its design language across horology and high jewellery. Spotted on billboards across Geneva, the Privé Tank à Guichets returned with jumping hours, dragging minutes, and an asymmetric platinum variant that stirred collectors into a frenzy. The Tank Louis Cartier got its first automatic movement in decades, housed in a subtly scaled-up case and paired with flinqué enamel dials. On the wilder side, the Panthère and Tressage collections leaned deep into jewellery-watch territory, blurring the line between precious object and timekeeper.
Privé Tank à Guichets: Four models—yellow gold, rose gold, platinum, and a 200-piece asymmetric platinum edition—all with jumping hours and dragging minutes in a brushed-case design.
Tank Louis Cartier Automatic: First automatic Tank LC in over 50 years, with Calibre 1899 MC; offered in yellow or rose gold with sunray flinqué enamel dials.
Panthère de Cartier: New gem-set variants in mini, small, and medium sizes; highlight model features lacquered stripes and spessartite gemstones.
Panthère Jewellery Watch: Bangle-style timepiece with a leaping panther form; available in yellow or white gold with diamonds, emeralds, and onyx.
Cartier Tressage: Braided-structure jewellery watch available in yellow gold, white gold, two-tone, or full diamond-set variants; features quartz movement and black lacquer or pavé dials.
Chanel
Chanel broke out of its monochrome mould at Watches & Wonders 2025, unleashing a prolific, kaleidoscopic blend of horological art and high jewellery innovation. Spearheaded by the Blush Capsule Collection and the new J12 Bleu range, the Maison delivered a record number of artistic and technical releases—from dripping enamel pentaptychs to diamond-set tourbillons and sapphire-cased marvels. The common thread? Colour, craft, and Coco’s eternal iconography—reimagined with wit and precision. Whether it was the haute couture-inspired Astroclock or the Pop Art kisses of the Boy·Friend Blush, Chanel’s lineup was playful, bold, and unmistakably personal.
J12 Bleu 38mm Automatic:
Matte blue ceramic with Calibre 12.1 automatic movement, 70-hour power reserve, COSC-certified.
J12 Bleu 42mm Chronograph: Chronograph version of the J12 Bleu with a larger case size and integrated Calibre 12.2 movement.
J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon: 38mm flying tourbillon set with a 65-facet solitaire diamond at its centre and 34 baguette-cut sapphires on the bezel; Calibre 5.
J12 Bleu X-Ray: Full sapphire case and bracelet with floating blue sapphire indices; powered by manual-wind Calibre 3.1; limited to 12 pieces.
J12 Blush Calibre 12.1 / 12.2: 38mm and 33mm matte black ceramic with pink/red camaïeu indices; COSC-certified automatic movements with 70- and 50-hour reserves.
J12 Pink Palette Watch: Gradient baguette-cut pink sapphires on black ceramic; powered by Calibre 12.2.
J12 Dripping Art Box: Five-piece Grand Feu enamel set with nail polish splash motif and lacquered box; Calibre 12.1; limited to 5 sets.
Boy·Friend Blush: Quartz watch with pink lacquer bezel, ‘Coco Kiss’ tampograph dial, and quilted pink calfskin strap.
Boy·Friend Coco Art Watch: Pop Art-style Gabrielle portrait in enamel and tampography; 38 baguette pink sapphires; manually wound; limited to 20 pieces.
Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion Beauty Art Watch: Oversized 55mm titanium watch with sculpted makeup tools, pearls, diamonds, and surrealist imagery; quartz.
Monsieur Platinum Lion Tourbillon: Platinum case, Calibre 5.1 flying tourbillon with lion-head cage, 72-hour reserve.
Diamond Astroclock: Carved white gold lion with 5,037 diamonds inside a glass orb; comet hour hand and 8-day movement.
Charriol
Charriol’s 2025 showcase was a celebration of feminine strength and coastal glamour, combining haute design, Swiss mechanics, and its signature steel cable DNA. The standout was the new Mariner Watch, a bold “bijoux montre” that transforms Charriol’s classic jewellery links into a luxury timepiece. The Navigator range expanded with a striking skeletonised calibre in two sizes, while the Surf GLAM brought a surfer’s edge to diamond-studded dive watch territory. And, in keeping with the brand’s Riviera roots, the St-Tropez collection introduced eight nostalgic-yet-modern takes on its bestselling cable-bracelet silhouette—revived with diamond bezels, monograms, and celestial asymmetry.
Mariner Watch: Chain-link inspired 20mm jewellery watch with metal or cable bracelet options; mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indices; a tribute to the Maison’s bangle legacy.
Mariner Twist: Twisted cable variant of the Mariner with gold-plated endpieces and bold steel construction.
Navigator Cruise 41 Skeleton: Limited to 41 pieces; 41mm steel case with CC41 calibre, faceted indices, luminous markers, and quick-change bracelet system.
Navigator Cruise 36 Skeleton: 36mm version of the above, available in yellow gold PVD and diamond bezels; limited edition of 30 pieces.
Navigator Surf GLAM: 36mm automatic diver with mother-of-pearl dial, lightning bolt seconds hand, and full diamond bezel; built for sea and soirée alike.
St-Tropez Eclipse (30mm): Off-centre dials, moon/sun-themed layouts in mother-of-pearl with diamond orbits and asymmetrical elegance.
St-Tropez® Monogram (30mm): 1990s-inspired gold/silver dials engraved with the Charriol “C” logo and diamond hour markers.
St-Tropez® Guilloché Mother of Pearl (25mm & 30mm): Kaleidoscopic guilloché dials in two case sizes, inspired by the Saint-Tropez seascape.
Chopard
Chopard’s Watches & Wonders 2025 showing was impressively balanced, pairing refined horological innovation with exuberant gem-set artistry. The Alpine Eagle collection delivered its most technical lineup yet, debuting platinum micro-rotor calibres, Lucent Steel™ flying tourbillons, and icy dial finishes that nodded to the Maison’s environmental ethos. The Happy Sport and Happy Diamonds families leaned into colour and charm with stone dials, animated animal motifs, and kinetic jewellery pieces. On the high-end spectrum, L.U.C introduced astronomical moonphases and sapphire-gong repeaters, while L’Heure du Diamant pushed feminine watchmaking forward through precious stones and miniature métiers d’art.
Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum: Crafted in 950 platinum with a new ‘Shades of Ice’ glacier-blue dial and a platinum micro-rotor movement; Poinçon de Genève and COSC certified .
Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon: Lucent Steel™ 41mm case with L.U.C 96.24-L flying tourbillon movement and Rhône Blue dial; COSC- and Geneva Seal-certified .
Alpine Eagle 33 Frozen Topaz Blue: 33mm in ethical white gold fully set with diamonds and a topaz-gradient bezel; powered by calibre 09.01-C .
Alpine Eagle 33 (Vals Grey): Lucent Steel™ and yellow gold bi-metal version with a grey iris-inspired dial and diamond markers; COSC-certified .
Happy Sport (Aventurine / Malachite / Lepidolite): 33mm ethical gold cases with limited-edition stone dials and five dancing diamonds; Chopard 09.01-C calibre .
Happy Sport (Khaki Green): New 36mm edition in Lucent Steel™ and rose gold, with a safari-inspired frosted dial and seven dancing diamonds .
Happy Diamonds Lucky-Charm Animals: A whimsical family of animal-shaped pendants and bangles crafted in precious stones, each with a dancing diamond and symbolic story .
Happy Spirit Pendants: Concentric circle pendants in 18k white gold with dancing diamonds—available in multiple sizes .
Haute Joaillerie Watch (Diamonds): Lace-inspired white gold timepiece fully set with 9.13ct of diamonds, blending couture motifs with horology .
Haute Joaillerie Watch (Emeralds): Dramatic white gold piece featuring 4.89ct Colombian emeralds and a diamond-paved dial with a satin strap .
L.U.C Full Strike Revelation: A 20-piece minute repeater in ethical yellow gold, featuring monobloc sapphire gongs, a sapphire dial, and COSC + Geneva Seal certification .
L.U.C Heritage EHG Moon 122: Commemorative astronomical moonphase celebrating 200 years of the Geneva School of Watchmaking, featuring a hand-engraved globe and moon disc on an aventurine dial .
L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 – Straw Marquetry Edition: Eight-day jumping hour watch in rose gold, with a hexagonal dial crafted from dyed rye straw using 17th-century techniques .
L’Heure du Diamant Moonphase: New 35.75mm model with aventurine dial and astronomical moonphase accurate to 122 years, powered by a 169-part automatic movement .
L’Heure du Diamant Malachite: New cushion-shaped 34.5 x 46.5 mm model in rose gold with a malachite dial and 6.85 carats of crown-set diamonds .
The Precious Hours Set: A box of 12 diamond-set 26mm watches, each with a distinct ornamental stone dial (e.g., turquoise, tiger’s eye, onyx, jade, opal) and a hand-wound movement developed in-house.
Christiaan van der Klaauw
The most poetic brand in watchmaking returned to Geneva with two astronomical marvels that pushed the limits of cosmic storytelling. The new Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite is an ultra-rare, fully meteorite-cased watch housing a real-time display of all eight planets—crafted with materials that predate Earth itself. Just as compelling is the launch of the Planetarium Titanium Onyx, which dresses the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium in a deep-space black dial and lightweight case, combining wrist comfort with galactic drama. With just a few pieces ever to be made, these watches aren’t just timekeepers—they’re wearable observatories.
Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite: 44mm meteorite case, aventurine dial with martian meteorite fragments, real-time orbital display of 8 planets, automatic in-house movement, strictly limited to 3 pieces.
Planetarium Titanium Onyx: Sleek 40mm titanium case with a polished onyx dial, featuring the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium complication; displays Mercury to Saturn in real-time.
Chronoswiss
Chronoswiss brought a bold blend of craftsmanship and colour to Geneva this year, proving that high horology needn’t be stuck in monochrome. Leading the charge was the new Pulse One series—a contemporary silhouette with an integrated titanium bracelet and skeletonised architecture that gives the brand’s technical movement a stage to shine. On the more classical end, the Q Repeater duo reaffirmed Chronoswiss’s rare mastery of chiming complications, while the two Small Second references leaned into elegance with moody, textured dials. Altogether, it was a collection that pulsed with energy—futuristic, but proudly mechanical.
Pulse One Sand (CH-6823T-BRSI): Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet, skeletonised dial, sand-coloured accents, exposed train and balance.
Pulse One Blue (CH-6823T-BLSI): Same spec as above, reimagined in deep blue with contrasting silver movement highlights.
Q Repeater Scream (CH-1163T-COL): Playful minute repeater with hand-guilloché, rainbow enamel chapter ring, and a hand-wound movement tuned to chime on demand.
Q Repeater Blue Note (CH-1663T-BLSI): A more traditional take on the complication with a navy guilloché dial and cathedral hands.
Small Second Desert (CH-8023-2-BRSI): Subtle desert-toned dial with a small seconds display at 6 o’clock; hand-wound calibre, fluted bezel.
Small Second Blue Orbit (CH-8023-2-BLSI): Identical layout to the Desert version, but with a starlit navy dial and cool-toned indices.
Cyrus Genève
Cyrus Genève’s 2025 launches continued to prove that technical ingenuity and architectural audacity aren’t mutually exclusive. The new Dominion GMT, developed by Jean-François Mojon, introduced a 42mm dual-crown case housing a layered retrograde GMT display—equal parts functional and futuristic. In parallel, the Maison returned to its flagship Klepcys line with the Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire Blue, a transparency-obsessed spectacle that redefines wrist presence. Together, they form a compelling one-two punch of wearable innovation and collector-grade complication.
Dominion GMT Titanium & Gold: 42mm twin-crown round case (in titanium or rose gold with titanium inlays), CYR708 automatic calibre with retrograde GMT hand, openworked palm tree-shaped bridge, 3D dial with transparent floating numerals and a small seconds propeller at 6 o’clock. Each version limited to under 30 pieces.
Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Sapphire Blue: Limited to 8 pieces; full sapphire crystal case with electric blue accents and white gold detailing; CYR625 hand-wound movement with 100+ hour power reserve, vertical tourbillon, retrograde hours and minutes, and a 3D dial framed by a Da Vinci bridge in white gold.
Czapek & Cie
Czapek unveiled a single, mesmerising launch this year—but it was more than enough. The Antarctique Tourbillon isn’t just the brand’s first tourbillon in its integrated sports line—it’s a total recalibration of what a sporty high-complication can look and feel like. Housed in a 42.5mm case with dynamic, faceted lugs and powered by the new SXH7 calibre, this piece boasts a peripheral rotor, suspended tourbillon cage, and dramatic openworked bridges. With the movement’s architecture visible from every angle and limited to just 38 pieces, this one’s clearly aimed at collectors who live in the details.
Antarctique Tourbillon: 42.5mm integrated steel case, automatic SXH7 calibre with peripheral rotor, 60-hour power reserve, openworked plates and bridges, flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock; limited to 38 pieces.
Eberhard & Co.
Eberhard & Co. revived the spirit of 1970s mechanical daring with Contodat, a clean-cut new collection that channels the Maison’s past while embracing integrated modernity. Available in two variants—Automatic and Chronographe—the collection reinterprets the original Contodat of the quartz-crisis era, designed by former president Palmiro Monti as a colourful, optimistic answer to the decade’s upheaval. Both new models feature compact 39mm steel cases, vibrant soleil-finished dials, and a punch of orange on the markers or hands—a through-line that links past to present. With screw-down crowns, water resistance, and fresh bracelet architecture, it’s a thoughtful reboot that honours Eberhard’s legacy with restraint and style.
Contodat Automatic: 39mm steel case, small seconds at 9 o’clock, trapezoidal date window at 3 o’clock, multilevel baton hands, soleil and azuré dial finishing; integrated bracelet with 2CLICK® clasp.
Contodat Chronographe: 39mm steel case, bicompax chronograph layout with 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock (extended to 45-minute scale), small seconds at 9 o’clock, central chrono hand, date at 6 o’clock; same bracelet and finishing as above.
Ferdinand Berthoud
Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Ferdinand Berthoud marked the occasion with two new FB 3SPC references—each housed in platinum and finished with a dramatic, architectural sense of style. These new pieces retain the Manufacture’s signature 3D construction, cylindrical hairspring, and obsession with finishing—but introduce black or salmon pink PVD treatments that elevate the mechanical depth of the display. The movement remains the star here: visible from both dial and caseback, with the escapement fully showcased at 9 o’clock. It’s an engineering showcase dressed in the quiet gravitas of platinum, limited to just 20 pieces each.
Chronomètre FB 3SPC.3: Platinum case with sandblasted salmon pink PVD movement, velvet-finished silver dial elements, and diamond-polished blue CVD gold hands.
Chronomètre FB 3SPC.3-1: Platinum case with sandblasted black PVD movement, varnished black dial and bezel, and facetted white gold hands.
Frédérique Constant
Frédérique Constant returned to Geneva with a compelling update to one of its most celebrated milestones—the Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. Now slimmer and sharper, the watch features the Maison’s new 40mm Classic case with gentler lines and a salmon sector dial that evokes the golden age of mid-century watchmaking. The upgraded FC-776 movement offers a 3-day power reserve and is fully visible through the sapphire caseback, balancing practicality with visual charm. This release doesn’t reinvent the wheel—it refines it, once again proving that handsomely-finished, in-house high complications needn’t come with eye-watering price tags.
Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (2025 Edition): 40mm steel case, sunburst salmon dial with stepped calendar counters, moonphase at 6 o’clock; automatic FC-776 calibre with 3-day power reserve and 4Hz beat rate; hand-finished dauphine hands and minimalist sector minute track.
GENUS
GENUS doesn’t just tell the time—it choreographs it. The independent Geneva-based brand stunned once again with a trio of kinetic masterpieces that fuse horology, poetry, and mechanical theatre. From cosmic infinity to nocturnal mystique and motorsport adrenaline, the new GNS2 editions push its signature “8-path” time display into ever more ambitious realms. With each release powered by the hand-wound calibre 260Rh-2 and featuring GENUS’ mesmerising arrow choreography, the brand continues to stand apart as one of the most philosophically daring watchmakers at the fair.
GNS2 Infinity Blue: Grade 5 titanium case, deep blue dial with golden hand-hammered elements, and free-moving arrows that replace traditional hands; evokes the ocean and the infinite passage of time.
GNS2 Time2Race: Grade 5 titanium case with black textured “asphalt” dial; features three 18K rose gold racing micro-cars endlessly circling the display—a mechanical tribute to 1960s–70s endurance racing.
GNS2 Nocturne: 18K 4N rose gold case with matte black dial base and hand-hammered rhodium accents; evokes Art Deco elegance and quiet power with rose gold arrows gliding over a figure-eight display track.
Gerald Charles
Gerald Charles celebrated its 25th anniversary with a trio of launches that honoured the legacy of founder Gérald Genta while pushing the envelope on innovation, ergonomics, and design language. The headline release, the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition, revives one of Genta’s most eccentric case shapes with a jumping hours complication, radiant lapis lazuli dial, and meta-guilloché engraving—an industry first. The Maestro 3.0 Chronograph modernises the GC33 with bold new materials, pyramidal pushers, and a Swiss Manufacture 3.0 calibre tuned for daily performance. Rounding off the lineup is the sporty-yet-stylish Maestro GC Sport Tennis, a titanium-cased, ultra-light timepiece that’s been play-tested by professional athletes and finished in a vivid tennis-ball yellow.
Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition: 42mm titanium case, jumping hours complication with concentric minutes, lapis lazuli dial core, proprietary meta-guilloché pattern, and new in-house calibre; limited to 100 pieces.
Maestro 3.0 Chronograph: Available in darkblast® titanium or polished steel with grey or ice blue Clous de Paris dials; features pyramidal pushers, Swiss Manufacture 3.0 automatic chronograph movement, and 100m water resistance.
Maestro GC Sport Tennis: Darkblast® titanium case, bright optic yellow grained dial and Velcro strap, Swiss Manufacture 2.0 ultra-thin calibre, 5G shock resistance and 64g total weight; limited to 200 pieces.
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko came to Geneva with one of its most multidimensional showcases to date—balancing ultra-high-precision engineering, nature-inspired dials, and dazzling high jewellery in equal measure. The new Spring Drive U.F.A. line made headlines for introducing a ±20 seconds per year movement, while the latest Tentagraph variant built on last year’s momentum with a sculpted Mount Iwate dial. But it didn’t stop there: a purple kiri-flower dial in a compact 36.5mm case paid tribute to 44GS heritage, while the new Masterpiece Collection model shimmered with over 600 diamonds and black spinels. Whether chasing accuracy or opulence, Grand Seiko once again proved its range is as vast as its inspiration.
Spring Drive U.F.A. (Platinum): 37mm platinum case with dark ice-blue dial, powered by ±20 sec/year calibre 9RB2; limited to 80 pieces .
Spring Drive U.F.A. (Titanium): Same new movement in a lighter, high-intensity titanium case with a pale blue textured dial and micro-adjust clasp .
Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (SLGC007): Evolution 9 43.2mm chronograph with snow-blue Mount Iwate dial, ceramic bezel, and high-frequency 9SC5 calibre with 3-day power reserve .
Purple Kiri 44GS (SBGW323): 36.5mm steel manual-wind Heritage Collection piece with Mt. Iwate pattern in a soft purple hue, inspired by Iwate’s official flower .
Tentagraph “Snow Blue” (SLGC007): Same spec as Tokyo Lion, with a lighter snow-blue palette and black subdials for strong legibility .
SBGD223 “Jet Black Lion”: Masterpiece Collection high-jewellery model in platinum 950, with over 600 diamonds and black spinels, housing the manual 9R01 Spring Drive movement with an 8-day power reserve; limited to 8 pieces .
Grönefeld
In a significant milestone for the Horological Brothers, Grönefeld debuted their first ever ladies’ timepiece at Watches & Wonders 2025—the 1944 Tanfana. Named after both the ancient goddess Tanfana and their mother Antoinette (born 1944), the piece is an emotional tribute wrapped in refined craftsmanship. A 37.5mm red gold case set with 233 diamonds surrounds an aventurine dial, delicately engraved with the ‘Flower of Life’ pattern. It’s elegant, yes—but also technically poised, thanks to the in-house Calibre G-06 with its engraved, microrotor-equipped movement visible through the sapphire caseback.
• 1944 Tanfana: 37.5mm red gold case set with 233 diamonds, aventurine dial engraved with the ‘Flower of Life’, automatic Calibre G-06 with micro-rotor and 72-hour reserve, limited production.
H. Moser & Cie.
H. Moser & Cie. leaned all the way into colour and craft this year, delivering a poetic masterclass in restraint and rebellion. The minimalist powerhouse’s centrepiece was the Pop Collection, a dazzling series of gemstone-dialed Endeavour references that turned precious materials like jade, lapis, coral, and chrysoprase into high-horology canvases—each one stripped of logos and indices in signature Moser fashion. Alongside these came the Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel, a radiant red gold creation that elevates Grand Feu enamelling into something bold and architectural. And rounding it out was the Purple Enamel Centre Seconds, which proves even Moser’s “simplest” watches are brimming with texture and alchemy.
Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel (Ref. 1805-0400): 40mm red gold case with hammered turquoise Grand Feu enamel dial, automatic HMC 805 calibre with one-minute flying tourbillon, double hairspring, and grey ostrich strap.
Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel (Ref. 1201-1200): 40mm steel case with “Purple Haze” fumé enamel dial over a hammered base, powered by the automatic HMC 201 with 3-day reserve and purple kudu leather strap.
Endeavour Concept Pop Collection:
Small Seconds (Ref. 1202-xxxx): 38mm steel case, dials in bi-material gemstones (turquoise/coral, lapis/chrysoprase, jade/pink opal), offset seconds subdial, limited to 28 pieces per variant.
Tourbillon (Ref. 1805-xxxx): 40mm steel case, same gemstone dials with flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, limited to 8 pieces each.
Minute Repeater Tourbillon (Ref. 1904-xxxx): 40mm red gold case, unique combinations of enamel and stone dials with dial-side chiming mechanics, each limited to 1 piece.
Hautlence
Hautlence returned to the spotlight this year with a cheeky mix of high-concept engineering and pop-culture nostalgia. The Linear Series 3 dazzled in a fiery red motif, showcasing the brand’s signature linear retrograde complication and a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. But the show-stealer was undoubtedly the Retrovision ’85—a fully transformable, limited-run robot watch that wears its 1980s Japanese toy influence on its sleeve. This is what happens when avant-garde horology meets the golden age of imagination.
Linear Series 3 – A bold 43mm steel watch with a red theme throughout, featuring a linear retrograde jumping hour display, a flying tourbillon, and a D50 automatic movement developed in collaboration with Agenhor.
Retrovision ’85 – An 8-piece titanium robot watch with wandering hours and a flying tourbillon, inspired by ‘80s transforming toys. Made using 3D printing and equipped with the Vagabonde Tourbillon movement.
Hermès
Few brands manage to make horology feel this poetic. Hermès brought its unique blend of whimsy and mechanical cleverness to Geneva, led by a vibrant revival of the Le temps suspendu complication—now available in both the Arceau and Cut collections. The maison also introduced the jewellery-forward Maillon Libre line, transforming its anchor chain motif into new forms of wearable art, while the Rocabar de Rire stole the show with a micro-painted automaton horse that sticks its tongue out on command. Equal parts irreverent and exquisite, the brand’s 2025 lineup was pure Hermès: refined, subversive, and emotionally resonant.
Arceau Le temps suspendu: 42mm rose or white gold cases with brun désert, rouge sellier, or sunburst blue lacquered sapphire dials; features retrograde hours/minutes and pusher-operated suspended time function powered by calibre H1837.
Cut Le temps suspendu: 39mm rose gold cases with red or opaline dials; uses the H1912 calibre with retrograde time display, a 24-second counter-clockwise indicator, and 100m water resistance.
Maillon Libre wristwatch: Sculptural 16.5mm × 27.7mm case in rose or white gold with diamonds or terracotta tourmaline; quartz movement and chain-link bracelet styling.
Maillon Libre brooch watch: 35mm × 23mm brooch/pocket-watch hybrid in rose or white gold with diamond and tourmaline settings; supplied with a leather pendant-style cord.
Arceau Rocabar de Rire: 41mm white gold case; features a hand-engraved and painted horse automaton that sticks out its tongue on command; dial made using horsehair marquetry; limited to 12 pieces.
Hublot
Hublot went full throttle for the Big Bang’s 20th anniversary, with a deliriously diverse collection that spanned sapphire, ceramic, and multi-watch collectors’ sets. From pastel ceramic chronographs to kaleidoscopic gem-set dials, the brand’s 2025 launches celebrated its legacy as watchmaking’s loudest material innovator. The standout? A full sapphire-cased Unico drenched in translucent water blue. But for the true believers, two ultra-limited five-watch box sets offered everything from minute repeaters to MECA-10s—each flexing a different colour, case tech, or complication.
Big Bang One Click Joyful – 33mm polished steel with coloured gemstone bezels (sapphire, spinel, topaz, tsavorite), each with a matching strap and HUB1120 auto movement.
Big Bang One Click / Unico Mint Green & Petrol Blue – Spring-ready ceramic editions in 33mm (One Click) or 42mm skeletonised chronograph format (Unico).
Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire – A 44mm fully transparent sapphire case in a new aquatic hue, housing the Unico flyback chronograph; limited to 50 pieces.
Master of Sapphire Set – Five MECA-10s in different sapphire cases (clear, purple, blue, yellow, water blue); 10-day power reserve; limited to five collectors’ sets.
Materials & High Complications Set – Five-watch mega set showcasing cathedral gongs, tourbillons, and a carbon minute repeater in ceramic, Texalium, and sapphire.
HYT
Fluid mechanics and wild design coalesced once again at HYT, which introduced a pair of releases that prove the brand’s sci-fi sensibilities are still evolving. The standout was the T1 Titanium Guilloché, limited to just eight pieces and offering a rare blend of traditional hand-finishing and space-age fluidic display. Meanwhile, the new S1 Collection took things sporty and futuristic, adding three bold new references—Blue, Green, and Red—to HYT’s permanent lineup. All three house the brand’s signature bellows-driven calibre inside ergonomic 45.3mm titanium cases built for real-world wear.
T1 Titanium Guilloché – Limited to 8 pieces; hand-guilloché blue dial, fluidic retrograde hours, manual 72-hour movement, 45.3mm titanium case.
S1 Titanium DLC Blue – Black DLC-coated titanium case with white-on-blue accents and retrograde fluidic hours in vivid blue; matching rubber and Velcro straps.
S1 Titanium DLC Green – Same case as above, but with green fluid and stealthier Super-LumiNova® accents for low-light visibility.
S1 Beadblasted Titanium Red – Brushed titanium case in silver and black tones with bold red fluidic hours; comes with black rubber and grey Velcro straps.
IWC Schauffhausen
IWC returned to Watches & Wonders with its most technically diverse lineup in years, split between two heavy-hitting families: the Ingenieur and the Pilot’s Watch. The former saw a wider size range and a new perpetual calendar complication, with standouts including a black ceramic 42mm model and a 35mm gold reference with a tone-on-tone dial. The Pilot’s line, meanwhile, flirted with both theatre and tech: a ceratanium perpetual calendar chronograph, an F1-inspired chrono tied to the APXGP team, and a shock-resistant, skeletonised Big Pilot’s tourbillon. It’s clear that Schaffhausen is flexing hard in 2025—and not just in steel.
Ingenieur 42mm Black Ceramic – Monochrome ceramic case with black dial; boldest iteration of the Genta-derived design to date.
Ingenieur 35mm Gold – New compact case size with tone-on-tone gold dial; minimal, maximal and unapologetically luxe.
Ingenieur 40mm Green Dial – Steel with a green dial and gold markers, inspired by Brad Pitt’s F1 film.
Ingenieur 40mm 5N Gold – Larger 40mm edition in 5N gold with a black dial.
Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41mm – Adds moonphase, leap year, and full calendar to the collection for the first time; powered by IWC’s in-house auto QP calibre.
Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ceratanium) – Combines lightweight titanium-ceramic alloy with perpetual calendar and chrono in 43mm format; digital date/month displays.
Pilot’s Chronograph APXGP – F1 tie-in with the fictional F1 movie team; built for cinematic swagger.
Big Pilot’s Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton – Flying tourbillon with full skeletonisation and a newly reengineered cantilever spring shock system in bulk metallic glass.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre went all-in on storytelling this year, transforming their booth into the grand stables of a 1930s polo club in honour of the Reverso’s origins. The thematic nod to equestrian culture carried over into the timepieces themselves, with a focus on artistic métiers and minute repeater mastery. The brand doubled down on high horology and enamel artistry with multiple Shahnameh-inspired limited editions, a reinvented minute repeater, and a poetic new Hybris Artistica. Elegant complications and refined tributes dominated the Reverso lineup—each one a conversation between heritage and invention.
Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater – A contemporary evolution of JLC’s 1994 chiming icon; pink gold case, enhanced acoustics, flying racks.
Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds – New steel model with day/night function, dual-time dials, and art deco refinement.
Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds (Pink Gold) – Classic 45.6 × 27.4mm format with a burnished elegance and JLC’s hand-wound 822 calibre.
Reverso Tribute Geographic – World timer on one side, local time with power reserve on the other; stainless steel or pink gold.
Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 – Ultra-complex flying gyrotourbillon with peripheral displays in white gold; haute horlogerie on full display.
Reverso Tribute Nonantième ‘Enamel’ – A playful complication with a smiling moonphase and cloisonné enamel artistry.
Reverso Tribute Shahnameh Series (5 models) – Each with a hand-engraved back depicting scenes from Ferdowsi’s Persian epic—Saam, Rustam, Siyavush, Faridun—done in miniature painting on white gold.
Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ / ‘Precious Colours’ – Lavish métiers d’art interpretations of flora and geometry, aimed at collectors of fine ladies’ pieces.
Kross Studio
With the debut of the MT1 Chronomètre Tourbillon 7 Jours, Kross Studio pivoted from its pop-culture collabs into pure horological gravitas—without losing its futuristic edge. This sleek 44mm titanium timepiece houses the new KS 7010 MT calibre, designed entirely in-house with a flying tourbillon and a whopping seven-day power reserve. It features a lugless case design, domed sapphire crystal, and a Japanese garden-inspired “Raindrop” motif engraved on the barrel bridge. Clean, compact, and ergonomically slick, the MT1 is a minimalist masterstroke with mechanical teeth.
MT1 Chronomètre Tourbillon 7 Jours – 44mm grade 5 titanium, manual-wind KS 7010 MT movement with 7-day reserve and flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock; lugless case, interchangeable strap system, and hand-chamfered skeleton architecture.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier returned to the fair with a tranquil beauty that doesn’t shout—it whispers. The new Classic Auto Horizontakes the micro-rotor calibre developed for the Sport Auto and dresses it in a serene blue lacquer dial with meticulous guilloché and a date aperture as crisp as a pressed French cuff. At 40mm in polished steel and featuring over 130 hand-finished operations on the movement alone, it’s the kind of watch that reveals new layers each time you glance down at your wrist. A quiet triumph in blue.
Classic Auto Horizon – 40mm steel case, horizon blue lacquer dial with vertical satin finish, date at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 6, and a self-winding LF270.01 micro-rotor calibre with 72-hour power reserve and platinum winding mass.
Louis Moinet
Louis Moinet leaned hard into its dual legacy of astronomical flair and racing adrenaline this year. Headlining the lineup was the 1816, a modern chronograph inspired by Moinet’s original “compteur de tierces,” complete with a guilloché titanium bracelet and a new 330-part in-house movement. The poetic Black Moon reframed the moonphase with actual lunar meteorites rotating on a central disc—one dark, one pale—set against an aventurine dial. And from the racetrack came two new Time to Race variants, each a high-octane spectacle of titanium, sapphire domes, and single-pusher chronograph theatrics.
1816 – A 40.6mm grade 5 titanium chronograph with triple-register layout, manual-wind in-house calibre with column wheel, instantaneous minute counter, and guilloché-integrated bracelet.
Black Moon – A red gold watch with dual real-meteorite lunar discs and central moonphase display; self-winding movement with 122-year accuracy, luminous indices, and sector seconds.
Time to Race ‘Rush’ & ‘White Fuji’ – 40.7mm titanium single-pusher chronographs in metallic blue and white/red livery, respectively; carbon fibre dials, open movement views, and bespoke lucky numbers; each a unique piece.
MeisterSinger
The one-hand specialist returned to Geneva with a refreshingly bold new direction—launching the Kaenos line as a sportier, more contemporary platform for its signature slow-time philosophy. The core models introduced luminous two-layer dials, integrated steel bracelets, and playful new date displays. But the real statement came from two limited editions designed with Alain Silberstein, who added his signature whimsical geometry and colour to the Kaenos silhouette. Both editions keep the single-hand DNA intact while introducing a splash of expressive eccentricity.
Kaenos – 40mm steel case, single-hand layout, available in four dials (light blue, petrol, grey, black) with Sellita SW400 and oversized date at 6 o’clock.
Kaenos Open Date – Same case and colours, but with Sellita SW200 and exposed date ring visible under 12 o’clock.
Edition Silberstein Grande Date – Jet-black dial with golden markers, red single hand, and a minimalist second hand; gold accents throughout; limited to 225 pieces.
Edition Silberstein Open Date – Exposed date ring, playful indices, red/gold hand combo and exhibition rotor echoing dial colours; also limited to 225 pieces.
Montblanc
Montblanc leaned into its twin passions—mountain exploration and artisanal dial work—with a sharp 2025 lineup. At the centre of it all was the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson LE, celebrating Reinhold Messner’s final Seven Summits conquest with a glacier-textured dial and a luminous side engraving of the Antarctic peak. But the brand also brought bold colour to the fore: new Iced Sea models in glacier green and grey expanded their dive watch line, while the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva took centre stage for collectors, featuring a “zero reset” chronograph with no start-stop pushers. Heritage, complication, and plenty of visual punch—Montblanc’s offerings had it all.
1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson LE – 43.5mm titanium with a composite middle case; glacier dial, dual-hemisphere worldtime, 0-oxygen tech, and Messner engraving; limited to 986 pieces.
Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 – 43mm bronze case with brown glacier dial, unidirectional ceramic bezel, and 4810m water resistance; features Montblanc’s 0-oxygen tech.
Iced Sea Glacier Grey – 41mm stainless steel case with glacier pattern dial in grey tones; COSC-certified automatic movement.
Iced Sea Glacier Green – Same specs in a vibrant, jagged green glacier finish; both come with interchangeable rubber straps.
Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva LE 100 – 42mm lime gold case with green flinqué enamel dial and no-start-stop chronograph system; monopusher at 3 o’clock triggers instant reset.
NOMOS Glashütte
NOMOS brought colour, clarity, and a crisp new worldtimer complication to Geneva this year with the launch of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. For the first time, their sportiest line gets a worldtime upgrade—powered by the ultra-thin, in-house DUW 3202 calibre, which manages to integrate the complication in a case just 9.9mm thick. The standard blue and silver models offer sunburst finishing and crisp, travel-ready legibility. But the real party lives in the limited editions: six vibrant colourways named after wild, elemental landscapes—each limited to just 175 pieces.
Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer (Standard) – 41mm steel case, DUW 3202 worldtime movement, 100m water resistance, sunburst dials in deep blue or rhodium-plated silver with day/night accents.
Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer Limited Editions – Six dial colours (Volcano, Jungle, Canyon, Glacier, Magma, Dune); 175 pieces each, same spec as above, each evoking dramatic natural landscapes in playful, travel-themed tones.
Norqain
Norqain’s Geneva presence this year struck a balance between unfiltered athleticism and technical legitimacy. Leading the charge was the Wild ONE Skeleton 39mm, a vibrant, downsized take on their high-performance NORTEQ® sports watch. Available in four bold colours—including a mint green limited edition—it’s lightweight, shock-resistant, and COSC-certified to boot. Meanwhile, the Independence Skeleton Chrono returned with new purple and jade finishes, both powered by Norqain’s in-house 8K calibre—complete with flyback, column wheel, and a mountain-shaped openwork dial that roots the design in Alpine DNA.
Wild ONE Skeleton 39mm – Four colourful variations in hyper-light NORTEQ® (Hyper Pink, Sky Blue, Purple Ice Blue, Mint Green LE); shock-resistant to 5000g, COSC-certified N08S movement, and integrated patterned rubber straps.
Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm (Purple/Jade) – Titanium-cased flyback chronographs with skeletonised 8K manufacture calibre, COSC certified; the jade version limited to 500 pieces with stealthy DLC case.
Oris
Few watches wear their legacy as gracefully—or colourfully—as the Big Crown Pointer Date, and Oris gave the icon its freshest update in years. The expanded 2025 collection spans new case sizes, vibrant dials, and upgraded movements, including two Calibre 403 models with five-day reserves and anti-magnetic tech. A trio of more accessible 40mm versions in sunny pastels tap into the brand’s playful energy, while a new 34mm size brings lab-grown diamonds and slim profiles into the mix. Whether it’s classic terracotta or diamond-studded black, Oris proves once again that joy and heritage aren’t mutually exclusive.
Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 (Green / Terracotta) – 40mm steel with Oris’s five-day automatic movement, small seconds, and a choice of metal bracelet or sustainable deer leather strap.
Big Crown Pointer Date 40mm (Yellow / Lilac / Blue) – Simplified automatic with central seconds, date pointer, and new H-link bracelet; powered by Oris 754 calibre.
Big Crown Pointer Date 34mm (Brown / Black Diamond) – Downsized edition with automatic movement; black dial version features lab-grown baguette-cut diamond indices.
Panerai
Panerai’s 2025 lineup is a full-throttle return to form, with a refined yet rugged approach to their Luminor DNA. At the heart of it all is a completely refreshed Luminor Marina collection—now sleeker, lighter, and boasting the new P.980 calibre with restored stop-seconds, better finishing, and a 72-hour power reserve. The cases have slimmed by 12%, water resistance is rated at 500m across the board, and the new PAM Click quick-release system adds modern ease. But Panerai didn’t stop there. This year also saw the debut of a bold Platinumtech™ perpetual calendar and a dramatic horological sculpture in the form of the Jupiterium planetarium clock. It’s a lineup that threads the needle between tool-watch heritage and haute horlogerie flair.
Luminor Marina Collection – Available in 44mm AISI 316LVM steel or Grade 5 titanium with black, white, blue, or green sunburst dials. All feature the P.980 automatic calibre, sandwich dials with Super-LumiNova X2, and a 72-hour power reserve. Notable references include:
• PAM03312 (black dial on strap)
• PAM03313 (blue dial)
• PAM03314 (white dial)
• PAM03323 (blue dial on metal bracelet)
• PAM03325 (Titanio with green dial)
• Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech™ – PAM01575 – A 44mm platinum watch with a sapphire dial, P.4100 movement offering GMT, perpetual calendar, and a 3-day reserve. It’s a flex for high complications under the Luminor chassis.
• Panerai Jupiterium – An astronomical desk sculpture inspired by Galileo’s discovery of Jupiter’s moons. Inside its glass sphere: a geocentric display with perpetual calendar, 40-day power reserve, and real-time orbital displays. The most poetic thing Panerai’s made in decades.
Parmigiani Fleurier
With poetic restraint and avant-garde detail, Parmigiani Fleurier continues its bid to redefine contemporary luxury. Their 2025 lineup is a tactile study in horological balance—where romantic complications meet pure, minimalist design. At the heart of it are new Toric Quantième Perpétuel models and bold expressions of material science like the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in Ultra-Cermet. From secret dials to skeleton masterpieces, the maison proves it still speaks fluent connoisseur.
Toric Quantième Perpétuel Rose Gold – A 40.6mm perpetual calendar with coaxial date display and an in-house movement cased in 18ct rose gold. Limited to 50 pieces.
Toric Quantième Perpétuel Platinum – Same design and movement as above, now with a luminous blue dial in 950 platinum.
Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca – A split GMT complication with platinum knurled bezel, now in a serene Verzasca green dial inspired by Swiss rivers.
Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm Mineral Blue – A downsized take on their COSC-certified chronograph with no date for maximum clarity and elegance.
Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green – A 50-piece edition of their openworked stunner, finished in a Le Corbusier-inspired green and powered by the PF777 calibre.
Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet (London Grey & Milano Blue) – A world-first full-Cermet watch case housing their high-beat PF070 chronograph calibre. Available in two hues with rubber straps.
L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse (Midnight Fjord & Dawn Rose) – Minute repeaters hidden beneath Grand Feu enamel artwork. Time is shown only on the caseback, making these objets d’art as intimate as they are complex.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe’s 2025 collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to horological excellence, blending intricate complications with refined aesthetics. This year’s lineup introduces 15 new models across various collections, showcasing both technical mastery and elegant design.
Grand Complications:
Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001: This white gold timepiece integrates a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with day, date, and month displays that change simultaneously in 30 milliseconds. It features a blue dial with blue metallized hour markers and Dauphine hands, housed in a 42mm case with skeletonised lugs.
Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370R-001: The first rose gold iteration of this model, it boasts a brown Grand Feu enamel dial with a tachymeter scale in beige, complemented by rose gold Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands with luminescent coating.
Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001: Featuring a partially skeletonized sapphire crystal dial with gray metallization, this watch offers a contemporary take on the classic perpetual calendar, displaying day, leap year, month, and moon phases, with a retrograde date hand that resets instantly at the start of each month.
Calatrava Collection:
Calatrava 8-Day Power Reserve Ref. 5328G-001: Equipped with a new manually wound movement offering an eight-day power reserve, this model features instantaneous day and date displays at six o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. The textured blue dial with a black-gradient rim is complemented by a caseband adorned with Patek Philippe’s signature guilloché hobnail pattern.
Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001: A 38mm platinum time-only dress watch, it showcases an opaline salmon dial with faceted anthracite hour markers and Dauphine-style hands, exuding timeless elegance.
Nautilus Collection:
Ref. 5811/1460G: An evolution of the iconic design, this model features a 41mm white gold case and introduces a new butterfly clasp with micro-adjustment.
Ladies’ Nautilus Ref. 7010G: Expanding the women’s collection, this watch is now available in white gold with a lacquered azure blue wave-pattern dial, offering options of a composite material strap or a white gold bracelet.
Twenty~4 Collection:
Perpetual Calendar Ref. 7340/1R: Marking a milestone, this is the first round Twenty~4 model featuring a perpetual calendar, available with either a white dial or a sunburst olive dial, both in rose gold without gemstone settings.
Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001: Inspired by pieces owned by legendary collectors James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr., this desk clock features a hand-wound mechanism with a 31-day power reserve, housed in a green flinqué Grand Feu enamel case.
Pequignet
At Watches & Wonders 2025, French manufacture Pequignet unveiled four new haute horlogerie timepieces, each exemplifying the brand’s commitment to in-house craftsmanship and refined design.
Royale Paris 39.5mm: This model features a reduced case diameter of 39.5mm, offering a more compact and elegant profile. The design has been meticulously refined, with particular attention to finishes that complement its renowned Calibre Royal movement.
Royale Paris 36mm: Catering to those who prefer a smaller timepiece, this 36mm version maintains the sophisticated aesthetics of the Royale Paris line while ensuring a comfortable fit for slimmer wrists.
Concorde Titanium 36mm: Embracing modern materials, this watch boasts a 36mm titanium case, combining durability with a lightweight feel. Its contemporary design reflects Pequignet’s innovative approach to traditional watchmaking.
Concorde Gold 30mm: Exuding luxury, this 30mm timepiece is crafted from gold, offering a timeless and elegant accessory for those seeking a smaller, opulent watch.
Piaget
Piaget doubled down on heritage and haute extravagance this year, celebrating its 150th anniversary with a striking mix of modern interpretations and gemstone-heavy throwbacks. The star was undoubtedly the Polo 79 in white gold, a faithful reboot of the iconic 861 C701 with a slim 38mm case, full gold bracelet, and the razor-sharp 1200P ultra-thin automatic calibre. Meanwhile, the Andy Warhol watch—officially renamed through a partnership with the Warhol Foundation—returned in electrifying opal and tiger’s eye dials, standing tall in their flamboyant 45mm glory. For women, the new Sixtie collection brought back 1960s trapezoidal eccentricity in sculptural gold form—part jewel, part rebellion.
Polo 79 White Gold – 38mm full white gold case and bracelet, satin/polished gadroons, powered by the self-winding ultra-thin calibre 1200P with a 44-hour reserve.
Andy Warhol Watch (Opal + Blue Sapphire) – 45mm high jewellery edition with vivid opal dial and triple-row baguette sapphire bezel, celebrating Warhol’s favourite Piaget with Piaget’s favourite gemstone.
Andy Warhol Watch (Tiger’s Eye) – New edition with silky amber-toned dial, baton or dauphine hands, and the 501P1 calibre inside; part of a modular made-to-order programme.
Sixtie Collection – Boldly asymmetrical women’s watches in gold, inspired by Piaget’s 1960s trapeze shapes; satin dials, gadroon bezels, and trapezoidal gold bracelets with Roman numeral markers.
Raymond Weil
Raymond Weil returned to Geneva with a fresh burst of creative energy, pushing the boundaries of its flagship freelancer collection in two sharply distinct directions. First up is the Freelancer Complete Calendar, a 40mm display of classical elegance with moonphase, day-date-month windows, and discreet integrated correctors. Available in blue or dune tones, it subtly nods to the brand’s legacy while embracing modern usability. On the flip side, the RW1212 Skeleton Cushionbrings a dramatic blacked-out twist to the brand’s proprietary skeleton calibre—its new cushion-shaped case adding a sculptural edge to the openworked movement display. Tradition and boldness, side by side.
Freelancer Complete Calendar (Refs. 2766-PC5-64001 / 2766-ST-50001): 40mm case, available in rose gold PVD or stainless steel; self-winding RW3281 calibre with day/date/month/moonphase; sunray dials in dune or blue.
Freelancer RW1212 Skeleton Cushion (Ref. 2795-BKC-20000): 40mm x 40mm cushion case in black PVD; in-house RW1212 automatic calibre with visible balance wheel; limited to 500 pieces with black calfskin strap.
Ressence
To celebrate 15 years of boundary-pushing design, Ressence introduced its most advanced model yet: the TYPE 7, an oil-filled GMT equipped with the new ROCS 7 display module, a redesigned oil temperature gauge, and the brand’s patented magnetic caseback setting system. Both models feature a 41mm titanium case, titanium bracelet, and 5 ATM water resistance. The standout is the limited-edition TYPE 7 XV Aquamarine, with a fixed aluminium bezel and tropical dial in a bright, sunlit hue. The Night Blue edition opts for a ceramic bezel and moody elegance, continuing Ressence’s legacy of redefining the mechanical watch as a seamless interface.
TYPE 7 XV Aquamarine: 41mm titanium with aluminium bezel, oil-filled dial, GMT display, and redesigned temperature gauge; limited to 80 pieces.
TYPE 7 Night Blue: Same configuration in dark blue with ceramic bezel; regular production.
Roger Dubuis
Celebrating its 30th anniversary, Roger Dubuis unveiled timepieces that honor its heritage while showcasing its commitment to 'Hyper Horology'. The Excalibur Grande Complication combines a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and flying tourbillon within a 45mm pink gold case, limited to just 8 pieces. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar revives the signature biretrograde display in a 40mm pink gold case with a mother-of-pearl dial. Additionally, the Excalibur Orbis in Machina features a central monotourbillon within a 45mm pink gold case, limited to 88 pieces.
Excalibur Grande Complication: This masterpiece combines a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, and flying tourbillon within a 45mm pink gold case. Limited to just 8 pieces, it showcases the brand’s commitment to complex horology.
Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar: Reviving the signature biretrograde display, this 40mm pink gold timepiece features a silver-plated, satin-brushed dial with mother-of-pearl inserts, reflecting Roger Dubuis’ dedication to expressive design.
Excalibur Orbis in Machina: Featuring a central monotourbillon within a 45mm pink gold case, this watch exemplifies the brand’s innovative approach to tourbillon placement and design.
Rolex
Rolex’s 2025 showcase was headlined by a historic release—the Land-Dweller, the Crown’s first all-new sport model in over a decade. Inspired by the ‘70s Oysterquartz silhouette, it debuts a 40mm angular case with integrated lugs and an ultra-slim Jubilee bracelet. Under the hood lies the Calibre 7135—Rolex’s first 5Hz movement—featuring the new “Dynapulse” escapement and a honeycomb dial that subtly nods to vintage references. But beyond the buzz, this year’s novelties also returned to Rolex’s gentler side, with pastel dial Oyster Perpetuals and a new Sky-Dweller in opaline yellow gold.
Land-Dweller – 40mm steel with integrated Jubilee bracelet; Calibre 7135 with 5Hz frequency, 65h reserve, and “Dynapulse” escapement; honeycomb dial; available in multiple configurations including Everose and gem-set.
GMT-Master II – New green/black Cerachrom bezel in white gold with matching black ceramic dial; also launched in Everose with a natural tiger iron stone dial from Australia.
Oyster Perpetual – Matte pastel dials in pistachio, lavender, and beige; a more subdued take on the Stella-inspired colour runs from yesteryear.
Sky-Dweller – Now in yellow gold with a crisp opaline dial—an elegant refresh of the annual calendar and dual-time traveller’s favourite.
Rudis Sylva
Rudis Sylva captivated horology enthusiasts with the RS 23 Harmonious Oscillator, a timepiece that immediately cancels out the effects of gravity in vertical positions through its patented double-balance system. This innovation enhances precision and showcases the brand's commitment to advancing mechanical watchmaking.
RS 23 Harmonious Oscillator – Manual-winding movement with a 70-hour power reserve in a rose gold or titanium case, featuring intricate hand-guilloché detailing.
Speake Marin
Speake Marin expanded its Ripples collection by introducing the Ripples Gold, the first in the series to feature a luxurious 18k rose gold case. It blends sporty architectural lines with horological refinement, showcasing the brand's in-house mechanical capability.
Ripples Gold – 40.3mm rose gold case, mocha-coloured dial with a denim motif, powered by the SMA03-T calibre.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer brought a stylish, motorsport-inspired flair to W&W 2025 with bold designs and nostalgic tributes. From the vibrant Formula 1 Solargraph to the ultra-technical Monaco Split-Seconds, the brand straddled accessible fun and elite performance.
Carrera Day-Date 41mm – Stainless steel, TH31-02 movement, sunburst and opaline dial options.
Formula 1 Solargraph – 38mm case, TH-Polylight case material, solar-powered quartz movement.
Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph | F1® – White ceramic with translucent red dial; limited to 10 pieces.
Trilobe
Trilobe continues to push poetic complexity with Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Editions. The signature rotating disks return in new colours and a suspended layout, wrapped in a high-grade titanium case that makes its architecture the hero.
Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Edition – 40.5mm titanium, rhodium bridges, DLC rings in green, blue, or black.
Tudor
Tudor built on its existing momentum with a diverse range of launches, from new colourways and METAS-certified upgrades to all-new models like the 43mm Black Bay 68. The Pelagos Ultra was the shock-and-awe piece, while the Black Bay Pro’s opaline dial quietly won hearts.
Black Bay 68 43mm steel, METAS-certified, new dial options, 200m water resistance.
Pelagos Ultra 1000m WR, titanium build, METAS certification.
Black Bay 58 Burgundy sunray dial, new bracelet.
Black Bay Chrono – Panda/reverse panda with a 5-link bracelet.
Black Bay Pro – Now with a white opaline dial and yellow accents.
U-BOAT
U-BOAT went full steampunk with the new U-65, featuring one of the most dramatically domed crystals at the show. Designed to stand tall and proud on the wrist, the brand's signature industrial flair was alive and well.
U-65 – Ultra-domed sapphire, movable lugs, three-layer skeleton dial, "Oil Immersion" display.
Ulysse Nardin
The Diver [AIR] stunned audiences with its featherweight build and serious specs. At just 52 grams, it's the lightest mechanical dive watch on the planet, with skeletonised parts and space-age materials.
Diver [AIR] – 52g weight, ultra-light materials, skeletonised architecture.
Vacheron Constantin
Celebrating 270 years, Vacheron delivered show-stopping complications and faithful reissues. From the ultra-complex Solaria to a fresh take on the Historiques 222, the maison flexed both artistry and restraint.
Les Cabinotiers Solaria – 41 complications in a 45mm case, 8 years in development.
Tribute to Tour de l'Ille – Single-piece edition with decorative homage to Geneva.
Historiques 222 – Yellow gold reissue of 1970s integrated bracelet icon.
Van Cleef & Arpels
VC&A leaned into fantasy and romance with their poetic complications, most notably the Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate. Each piece is both a watch and a kinetic artwork, brimming with narrative charm.
Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate – Depicts a dancing lovers scene, moving at noon and midnight.
Zenith
Zenith marked its 160th anniversary with a sharp focus on chronograph icons, debuting a blue ceramic trilogy and a tribute to its historic Calibre 135.
Defy Skyline Chronograph – Blue ceramic, 1/10th second El Primero, angular skeleton dial.
Chronomaster Sport – Blue ceramic, tricolour registers, 5Hz El Primero 3600.
Pilot Big Date Flyback – Blue ceramic, oversized date, flyback chrono, aviation-inspired.
G.F.J. – 38.5mm platinum case, Calibre 135 revival, lapis lazuli dial, +/–2 sec/day accuracy.
(Note: Hysek is not present on this list due to technical errors.)
