Established in 2001, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s (GPHG) main purpose has been to shine the spotlight on and celebrate the most remarkable contemporary creations and promote watchmaking art on a global level. The awards ceremony, held in November, every year, forms a hub where the elite representatives gather under one roof to honour the finest creations and stakeholders of the haute horlogerie universe. And this year’s 22nd edition came to a close when the winners were announced at a grand ceremony held in Geneva where 90 timepieces—nominated across 15 categories went on to compete for the top prizes including the coveted ‘Aiguille d’Or’ Grand Prix (Best in show), which was awarded to MB&F for the Legacy Machine Sequential Evo watch. There were also others like Bulgari, Grand Seiko, H. Moser & Cie., Hermès, Parmigiani Fleurier, TAG Heuer, and Tudor that were honoured with prestigious awards amongst other brands.
The 90 nominated timepieces, including the winners, are currently on display at the Musée Rath in Geneva until 20 November 2022. The winners will then also be presented in New York from December 1 to 4.
Here’s a look at some of the top award winners:
“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix or Best In Show
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
The LM Sequential EVO features two complete chronograph displays, each with a large 60-second counter and a smaller 30-minute counter. As you would expect, each of these displays can be started, stopped, and reset completely independently of each other, using the start/stop and reset pushers on their respective sides of the case. But this chronograph goes much further, thanks to the revolutionary “Twinverter” binary switch that allows multiple timing modes: split-second, sequential (lap timer), and even a cumulative “chess match” mode – a combination never seen before in any previous wristwatch. With a 44mm case in zirconium—lighter than stainless steel and more durable than titanium, and with a water-resistance of up to 80m, this watch is powered by a manual-winding mechanical movement that features a fully-integrated dual chronograph—a mechanism that has two column-wheel chronographs and patented, internally-jewelled vertical chronograph clutches, ensuring there is no drop in amplitude or power reserve whether the chronographs are functioning or not. It supplies a power reserve of 72 hours and is presented on an integrated rubber strap.
Men’s Complication Watch Prize
Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
This 41mm Arceau in platinum and titanium offers new ways of tracking time. The unique “Travelling time” mechanism developed exclusively for Hermès drives a display of 24 time zones via a circular disc and a mobile counter. The exclusive 122-component module is housed in a 4.4mm thick case. A true technical and aesthetic challenge, the “Travelling time” complication is integrated into the Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement, which offers a power reserve of 40 hours.
A smaller, 38mm version of the Hermès, Arceau Le Temps Voyageur in steel also won the ‘Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize’. It offers the same features as its male counterpart and is also powered by the same movement but features a blue dial instead of a black one.
Iconic Watch Prize
TAG Heuer Monaco X Gulf
This iconic design from TAG Heuer is a favourite amongst watch collectors since it was one of the most avant-garde timepieces, launched back in 1969. The model featured here stands out for its timeless yet futuristic stainless steel square case measuring 39mm. The eye-catching design is based on the three iconic colours of the Gulf region but in a more contemporary colour combination: the special dark blue, turquoise, and orange. The 12 o’clock index on the opaline dial is replaced by the number ‘60’ – polished and rhodium plated. On the caseback, one can get a glimpse of the personalised oscillating mass and column wheel with a special engraving, coloured to match the Gulf orange pantone. This is part of the in-house Heuer 02 movement that supplies the watch with an 80-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 100m, it is presented on a perforated, blue calfskin leather strap with an orange lining.
Tourbillon Watch Prize
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
While H. Moser & Cie. are known for their fumé dials with beautiful gradients, it’s not often that one sees a skeleton timepiece from the brand. The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, featuring an off-centre time display at 12 o’clock and the tourbillon at six o’clock is a sheer delight. Moser has chosen the contemporary Pioneer case for showcasing the traditional art of skeletonisation that reveals the HMC 811 manufacture calibre. This large, fully skeletonised movement with a 34mm diameter features a one-minute flying tourbillon, equipped with a cylindrical hairspring, due to which friction on the pivots is reduced and the isochronal properties improved. The sub-dial at 12 o’clock reflects the curve of the sapphire crystal and comes in Moser’s signature fumé colour—Funky Blue. The indices here are bold and created using Globolight—a ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova. While the entire mechanism is on display both in the front and back, on turning over the watch, one can also see a skeletonised gold rotor—in sync with the watch’s overall design aesthetics. Water-resistant to 120m, the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is presented on a black alligator leather strap, but can also be worn with a steel, rubber or textile strap, thus providing a variety of options.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary
With 10 years in the making, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra is the Italian maison’s eighth world record when it comes to producing ultrathin complications. This 40mm timepiece in titanium is 10 per cent thinner than their previous ultra-slim champion—the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar (2021). With a case measuring just 1.80mm, this watch features the concept of ditching a separate case and machining the base plate into the caseback. It is driven by the in-house, mechanical manual-winding BVL180 calibre, which beats at 28,800vph and supplies a power reserve of 50 hours. The dial showcases hour and minute regulator displays in black PVD hands, second wheel with black index indicator, winding and time-setting wheels, stainless steel ratchet engraved with a unique QR code—linked to an exclusive NFT artwork. Water-resistant to 30m, the watch is presented on a sandblasted titanium bracelet with an integrated folding buckle, and is limited to 10 pieces only.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon
The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon is the Japanese watchmaker’s first mechanical complication timekeeper. It successfully combines a constant-force mechanism—which provides the escapement with a consistent flow of power—along with a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. It is driven by the Calibre 9ST1, which sets a new standard of accuracy, as each movement is tested for a full 48 hours in each of six positions and at three temperatures. The watch is named Kodo, or ‘heartbeat’ in Japanese, after the unique motion of the two mechanisms and the sound of the rhythm it makes. The movement is housed in a 43.8mm, solid platinum and titanium case, which is water-resistant to 100m, and is presented on a specially processed calf strap made from an extremely durable material called ‘Himeji Kurozan’ leather, which was used centuries ago to make samurai armour.
Ladies’ Watch Prize
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic
Slightly reduced in size, the new Tonda PF Automatic 36mm retains the attributes of the model that has become a signature of the brand: the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. Equipped with a new, in-house automatic movement of subtly smaller dimensions with a 60-hour power reserve, the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm is a watch that’s suited for thinner wrists. The watch obviously upholds all the stylistic codes specific to Parmigiani Fleurier: fluid and harmonious integration of the 18K rose gold case and bracelet, knurled bezel, finely guilloché minimalist dial with invisible set baguette-cut diamond indexes. It is a timepiece of austere sobriety and discreet elegance.
For the full prize list visit: https://www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/prize-list-22