This year’s Geneva Watch Days felt less like a snooty fair and more like an all-summer lakeside rendezvous — horology’s equivalent of “grab a croissant, meet a maker, spot a tourbillon or two.” As Kristian Haagen nicely put it, GWD is where “watchmaking loosens its tie, steps outside, and lets innovation breathe” . And with 66 brands strutting their stuff across Geneva — from intimate pop-ups by the lake to spirited debates over espresso — it was indeed the breezy, open festival we’ve all come to cherish .
Tag Heuer’s CEO Antoine Pin could easily have been delivering a pep talk: “Some people will say it’s not the moment to show these things,” he acknowledged of revealing the TH-Carbonspring oscillator. “But the essence of luxury is to surprise and create emotions… when times are tough… you need to enchant.” A bold, theatrical statement from someone intent on reminding the watch world that resilience and emotion still count .
Back during GWD 2024, we saw H. Moser & Cie crafting moody fumé dials, Urwerk doing their orbiting-satellite thing, and MB&F making boutique-sized waves. The show’s energy was all about daring, creative freedom — a spirit that GWD has nurtured and amplified ever since its 2020 inception as a ‘Baselworld alternative’. Anyway, let's not tarry—here's 10 of our top highlights from the event so far:
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
A bold, moon-gazing Carrera that thinks big. Encased in 39mm steel, it houses TAG’s new Calibre 7 with an accurate moonphase display that plots all seven lunar stages on a luminous rotating disc. It’s high horology with a sci-fi heart, available in three flavours — full steel, a turquoise-accented limited run of 500 pieces, and a two-tone rose-gold edition. Prices start at $4,450 (₹3.7 lakh) and climb up to $7,050 (₹5.9 lakh), with deliveries beginning October. It’s Carrera meets cosmos, and it hits right in the collector feels.
TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Models
Six years. Fifty million Swiss francs. And TAG finally drops its Carbonspring tech, an ultra-light composite hairspring resistant to shocks and magnetism. It debuts in two heavy-hitters: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph at $17,900 (₹15 lakh) and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport at a hefty $42,100 (₹35 lakh). This is TAG flexing deep-pocket R&D without apology. Expect these to hit boutiques between December 2025 and early 2026.
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan & Marble Tourbillon; Bronzo Collection
Bvlgari’s booth felt like a gallery opening. The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan (150 pieces) takes its dial cues from the Korean minimalist’s stone-mirror art, squeezing all that tension into a titanium case just 5.5mm thick. Then there’s the Marble Tourbillon, limited to 30 pieces, with a deep-blue Italian marble dial framing a floating flying tourbillon — modern architecture meets mechanical poetry. Meanwhile, the new Bronzo Collection brings bronze cases to the Aluminium family for the first time, offered in a 41mm chronograph and 40mm GMT. Prices aren’t public yet, but safe to assume: premium, limited, collectible.
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium
The Freak remains a freak — in the best way possible. The Freak X Crystalium fuses a ruthenium crystalised baseplate with a rose-gold PVD finish, creating a dial that looks grown, not built. No hands, no dial, just the signature flying carousel movement rotating to tell time. Limited to 50 pieces, expect pricing north of CHF 38,000 (₹37 lakh). It’s rebellious haute horlogerie, shimmer included.
Zenith×USM Chronomaster Revival
This collab makes perfect sense once you see it. Zenith partnered with Swiss modular-furniture icon USM to produce a playful, mid-century-inspired Defy Chronograph in four bold dial colours lifted straight from USM’s shade book — think 1960s office chic, but for your wrist. Limited to 60 pieces per colour, each is powered by the legendary El Primero calibre. Prices are expected around CHF 14,000 (₹13.6 lakh). Also, yes — they ship in a designer USM chest. Naturally.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal Série Atelier
Laurent Ferrier celebrates 15 years of independent watchmaking with something so understated, it’s aggressive. A 41mm platinum case houses a teal grand feu enamel dial so glossy it could drown small creatures. Beneath it? A double-balance spring tourbillon, neatly hidden unless you flip it over. Only five pieces exist, priced at about CHF 195,000 (₹1.9 crore), and they’re online exclusives. Blink and you’ll miss them — literally, since they’re probably gone already.
Renaud Tixier Monday Organica
Seven pieces only. That’s it. But if you’re into watchmaking that feels more atelier than assembly line, this is one to stalk. It’s a symphony of handmade dials, sculptural bridges, and a micro-rotor movement that somehow balances fragility with mechanical audacity. At an estimated CHF 85,000 (₹83 lakh), it’s practically wearable art.
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx
This one’s proof that accessible watchmaking doesn’t have to mean boring. A polished onyx dial set with lab-grown diamond markers brings ’70s retro-luxury vibes without screaming for attention. Expect pricing around CHF 4,500 (₹4.4 lakh), which makes it a collector’s steal — fun, versatile, and perfectly Instagram-coded.
Singer Reimagined Caballero
If this were a car, you’d park it in a glass-walled garage. Singer’s new Caballero brings a four-barrel Calibre-4 Solotempo engine into a 39mm steel case, boasting a ridiculous six-day power reserve. It’s also surprisingly restrained for a Singer — stripped back but powerful. Expect prices around $22,000 (₹18.5 lakh), which feels almost reasonable if you know what Singer usually asks.
Doxa SUB 750T
For everyone with a soft spot for chunky divers, Doxa has slimmed its tooly classic just enough to make it modern, but not so much that it loses personality. The new SUB 750T comes in eight signature colourways and 16 configurations, pairing beads-of-rice bracelets with tone-matched rubber straps. Expect a starting price of around CHF 3,500 (₹3.4 lakh) — a relatively friendly gateway into the brand’s cult aesthetic.
