A strangely cinematic week in watches: platinum moons, winter-blue chronographs, and a handful of microbrands punching above their weight. The big names flexed heritage and craft like MB&F, Omega, and Glashütte, while the smaller players got experimental, from tantalum bracelets to complete calendars built in someone’s garage. Together, they make a case for where luxury’s really headed: not louder, just more self-assured:
MB&F LM Perpetual EVO & LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds (Seddiqi 75th)
Trust MB&F to turn a 75th anniversary into a small-scale horological riot. The new LM Perpetual EVO in zirconium keeps things sporty, while the Baguette Diamonds version goes full Dubai, extravagant, intricate, and utterly unapologetic. Same mad-genius calendar by Stephen McDonnell, same floating balance, same reminder that MB&F builds mechanical art first and tells time second.
OMEGA Speedmaster Milano Cortina 2026
Omega’s Olympic obsession continues with the Milano Cortina 2026 Speedmaster, a frosted white and blue number that looks like it was carved out of an ice rink. The 38mm case packs the Co-Axial Calibre 3330 and a ceramic tachymeter bezel, all celebrating 100 days to the Winter Games. It’s crisp, clean, and the kind of Speedy that’ll make collectors briefly forget about the Moon.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Anniversary Edition
Glashütte Original went full romantic for its 180th birthday, dressing the PanoMaticLunar in platinum and a dial of deep aventurine that sparkles like the Saxon night sky. It’s an ode to the early watchmakers who literally timed by the stars, proof that German precision still knows how to flirt.
Atelier Wen Inflection (Full Tantalum Collection)
The first full tantalum watch line in serial production? Leave it to Atelier Wen. The Inflection series takes the notoriously hard-to-machine metal and turns it into something quietly beautiful, dense, slate-coloured, and built around a guilloché dial that shimmers like dusk. For a young Chinese brand, this is a flex in metallurgy and confidence.
Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni Chinese Limited Edition
Panerai’s latest for China doesn’t reinvent the wheel. The 45mm Radiomir carries the hand-wound P.5000 calibre with its trademark eight-day reserve, and a dial engraved with the character for longevity. Simple, faithful, very Panerai.
Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Collection
Raymond Weil keeps its head down and delivers a neat little homage to mid-century restraint. The Toccata Heritage pieces are all polished rectangles, Roman numerals, and subtle textures, the sort of quartz dress watches that quietly prove entry-level doesn’t have to mean afterthought. Maybe drop the Patek wishlist for a second and look here instead.
Citizen L Rainell
Citizen dips into its Tokyo archives and comes back with the L Rainell, a compact femme 26x31mm beauty with a rain-brushed dial, teardrop case and Eco-Drive movement that runs on light alone. Four colourways, all soft and tonal, the kind of design that’s more Haiku than headline.
Yema Navygraf Pearl CMM.20
Mother-of-pearl on a 300-metre diver sounds like a gimmick until Yema makes it work. The Navygraf Pearl blends shimmer and steel with its in-house CMM.20 micro-rotor movement, somehow managing to look both delicate and indestructible. French eccentricity at its best.
Haim Annum Complete Calendar
Haim’s latest drops the microbrand modesty act. The Annum packs a full calendar complication into a tidy 38mm case, complete with custom movement and early-bird pricing for eagle-eyed all-American watch nerds. A little thick on the wrist maybe, but full of nerdy charm and the kind of ambition modern collectors secretly root for.
Möels & Co 528 Series 2
The British indie’s second act is all refinement. The 528 Series 2 keeps the bold architectural curves and proportions but adds better ergonomics, softer finishing, and more mature colourways that jump straight out of the 80s. It’s still weird enough to be interesting but now feels like a watch you simply have to talk about.
Benrus Ultra-Deep Reissue
Benrus brings back the Ultra-Deep diver, now in a wearable 36.5mm case with compressor crowns and a nostalgic matte dial. It’s proper throwback energy, like something your dad would’ve worn to a dive bar instead of a dive site; and simply brims with masculine midcentury vibes.
Farer Stratton & Burbidge Moonphase (Eastern Arabic Edition)
Farer adds Arabic numerals to its already charming moonphase models, giving the Stratton and Burbidge an extra dose of personality. Same playful colours, same Swiss automatic inside, still the most fun you can have with a complication this classic.
