Panerai gives us watch nerds a reason to lighten up this week
I'll be honest, when it comes to Panerai, I know my favourites. I've always been a fan of the Italian marque's scaled-back, elegance-first-functionality-second watches; think the Luminor and Radiomir. Which is why their latest launch—which firmly swings in the opposite direction—came as something of a shocker; one that really showcases the brand's ability to play outside the boundaries of conventional watchmaking.
Encased in a robust 49mm diameter, the Submersible Elux Lab-Id PAM01800 is crafted from a unique Ti-Ceramitech™ material, a ceramised titanium with a distinctive blue hue achieved through Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation. This process not only endows the watch with a striking aesthetic inspired by the open seas but also enhances its durability, making it 44% lighter than steel with ten times the fracture toughness of traditional ceramics. The case features the iconic Panerai crown-protection bridge, a staple in Panerai's design language, providing additional protection for the winding crown against impacts.
The blue Ti-Ceramitech™ bezel, another standout feature, is equipped with a patented luminescent system that illuminates the counterclockwise rotating bezel markers, ensuring legibility even in the darkest environments. The dial is designed with functionality and clarity in mind. It includes a linear Power Light reserve indicator and a small seconds sub-dial at the 9 o'clock position. The indices and hour hand are accentuated with green SuperLuminova® X2, chosen for its enhanced luminosity, while the minute hand and bezel dots are highlighted with blue SuperLuminova® X1, maintaining a visually cohesive theme.
The design chops are cool, but the real party trick lies beneath the (dial) surface. At the heart of the Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 lies an innovative mechanical luminescence system, a first of its kind in the watchmaking world. Panerai's Laboratorio di Idee has engineered a fully mechanical movement that powers light on demand. This groundbreaking feature is made possible through an intricate arrangement of four dedicated energy-storing barrels, out of six in total, which power a microgenerator to convert mechanical energy into electricity. The microgenerator, a compact 8 x 2.3 mm unit, consists of custom-made coils, magnets, and a stator. It operates at a high speed of 80 revolutions per second, generating a high-frequency electrical signal of 240 Hz. This energy is then directed to illuminate various indicators on the dial, including the hands and bezel markers. The watch achieves this without active electronics, relying solely on mechanical components, which is a remarkable feat of engineering. One of the most impressive aspects of this innovation is the ability to provide continuous illumination for up to 30 minutes, a significant achievement given the limited energy compared to traditional battery-powered systems. This is further complemented by the Power Light function, which ensures that the precision of the P.9010/EL calibre movement is maintained even when the power light energy is depleted.
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is powered by the automatic mechanical P.9010/EL calibre. This movement is a marvel of modern horology, boasting 13 ¾ lignes, a thickness of 10.80mm, and comprising 363 components. It features 55 jewels, a Glucydur® balance-wheel stop, and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, with an Incabloc® anti-shock device to ensure durability and precision. The movement includes six barrels, with four dedicated to the innovative lighting system and two for the timekeeping functions, providing a power reserve of three days. The watch also features a stop-seconds function for precise time setting, a crucial feature for those who demand accuracy.
To complement its robust and technologically advanced build, the Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 comes with a stylish and practical blue rubber strap, designed to withstand the rigours of deep-sea diving. It also includes a second bi-material strap, offering versatility for different occasions. The trapezoidal titanium pin buckle ensures a secure fit, while the overall design maintains Panerai's commitment to blending form with function. Limited to just 150 pieces, with 50 units released each year over three years, the Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is not just a watch but a beacon of Panerai's pioneering spirit in mechanical luminescence.