The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is like the Oscars of the watch world, putting the best and boldest timepieces on centre stage each year. Since 2001, this Geneva-based event has celebrated innovation, craftsmanship, and that indefinable “wow” factor that makes a watch worth talking about. The Théâtre du Léman becomes the beating heart of horology for one evening, honouring everything from impeccable technical precision to adventurous designs.
Last year, GPHG turned heads with its focus on independent brands and rising stars—think small workshops doing big things. This year? That trend carried on strong. Young, daring watchmakers took the spotlight, delivering fresh spins on classic designs and proving that even in this heritage-rich industry, there's plenty of room to push boundaries. Here's our top highlights:
Special Jury Prize - Jean-Pierre Hagmann
Starting off with the people behind the timepieces; this honour celebrated Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s lifetime contributions to horology, recognising his role as a legendary case maker. Hagmann is a legendary Swiss master case maker celebrated for his collaborations with elite watch brands like Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Vacheron Constantin, crafting cases renowned for their precision and artistry. Known for his "JHP" signature, Hagmann's work includes iconic designs like the first wristwatch tourbillon case for Franck Muller and the Cintree Curvex. His dedication to preserving traditional case-making techniques led him to mentor independent watchmakers, including Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia. Recognised with the prestigious Gaïa Prize in 2024, Hagmann's legacy endures in his commitment to elevating case-making craftsmanship and transmitting these skills to new generations.
Aiguille d'Or Prize - IWC Schaffhausen, Portugieser Eternal Calendar
IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar is proof that high watchmaking isn’t just the realm of niche brands; with this model, IWC reasserts itself as a heavyweight in horological innovation. Building on the foundation of Kurt Klaus’s 1985 perpetual calendar, this timepiece introduces IWC’s first secular perpetual calendar, designed to track centuries’ worth of leap year anomalies without correction until at least 3999. The watch’s remarkable precision includes an eternal moon phase display, accurate to an astounding 45 million years, crafted with IWC’s Double Moon™ system. Driven by the IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre with a seven-day power reserve, its transparent glass dial and platinum case reveal the engineering finesse within, and the polished Santoni black alligator strap completes this modern masterpiece,
Audacity Prize - Berneron, Mirage Sienna
The Berneron Mirage Sienna is a daring blend of asymmetry and elegance, taking a fresh approach to shaped watchmaking by designing around the calibre itself rather than imposing external forms. Its movement escapes the conventional circle, showcasing a large barrel, a direct small second, and a pocket watch-style balance wheel—all elements that draw attention to its purposeful, imperfect symmetry. Made entirely of gold and produced in a limited run of just 12 pieces annually, the Mirage Sienna epitomises disruptive design with Swiss-made finesse—in many ways, this is the 'quiet luxury' watch of the year, bar none.
Revelation Prize - Rémy Cools, Tourbillon Atelier
At just 27, Rémy Cools presents the Tourbillon Atelier, a refined tribute to French watchmaking with a modern edge. Guided by his motto, “evolve, don’t repeat,” Cools created this 39mm platinum watch with a dial-side tourbillon displayed under a domed sapphire crystal. Its handcrafted Breguet overcoil and single polished bridge reflect his dedication to heritage craftsmanship. Every detail, from the hand-polished convex steel hands to the grained yellow or rose gold dial, blends classic and contemporary design. Powered by a hand-wound movement of 235 finely decorated components, the Tourbillon Atelier is built to last, with only 36 pieces available—an enduring masterpiece from a young visionary.
Sports Watch Prize - MING, 37.09 Bluefin
The MING 37.09 Bluefin marks a radical shift in dive watch design, challenging the century-old norms that have kept divers visually and structurally bulky. Rather than adhering to traditional rotating bezels and thick cases, MING has reimagined the diver with a sleek 38mm profile, advanced sapphire dial, and an internally rotating bezel controlled by an innovative crown system, all while maintaining 600m water resistance. Its dial, with laser-engraved Super-LumiNova X1 and dynamic colour-shifting properties, embodies modern elegance over classic ruggedness. Paired with a meticulously crafted FKM rubber strap, the Bluefin rejects the utilitarian dive watch aesthetic, bringing a bold new vision that retains performance without compromising refined, contemporary style.
Tourbillon Prize - Daniel Roth, Tourbillon Souscription
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription marks a monumental revival, reintroducing Roth’s distinct design ethos under Louis Vuitton's La Fabrique du Temps, which is now producing watches under Roth’s name. This launch reconnects the watch world with the man who revitalized Breguet’s legacy and later infused his own brand with classic watchmaking artistry. The Tourbillon Souscription pays homage to the original 1988 design, retaining Roth’s signature double-ellipse case in exclusive yellow gold, now refined to just 9.2mm thick. Crafted in Voutilainen’s workshop, the Clous de Paris guilloche dial modernises tradition, while the newly developed calibre DR001 showcases La Fabrique du Temps’ artisanal commitment to Roth’s motto: La Montre Objet d’Art.
Calendar and Astronomy Prize - Laurent Ferrier, Classic Moon Silver
14 years after the OG model won the GPHG Best Men's Watch prize, Laurent Ferrier’s Classic line brings the brand’s signature elegance into new territory with its first-ever moon phase complication. Set within the pebble-smooth curves of the 40mm red gold case, this watch’s understated beauty shines through a silver dial marked by intricate vertical brushing and rich petrol-blue chemin de fer minute track. The moon phase, crafted from Aventurine glass with hand-applied Super-LumiNova, offers a dazzling depth, while the annual calendar complication recognises varying month lengths, requiring just a single manual adjustment each March. Powered by the newly refined LF126.02 calibre with an 80-hour reserve, this watch merges traditional craftsmanship with modern precision, viewable through a sapphire case back showcasing Laurent Ferrier’s dedication to artisanal detail.
Men's Watch Prize - Voutilainen, KV20i Reversed
The Voutilainen KV20i Reversed turns classical watchmaking on its head, presenting Kari Voutilainen’s artistry in a novel “back-to-front” design. By reversing the movement, the KV20i showcases its intricate mechanics from the front, allowing the viewer to admire the in-house calibre’s every detail—particularly the single-arm balance-wheel bridge and dual escapement wheels. This unique construction enhances efficiency and stability, providing a longer power reserve and reliable daily performance. The German-silver main plate and hand-finished components embody Voutilainen’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship, all housed in a 39mm case and paired with a hand-sewn crocodile leather strap, creating a piece that redefines elegance in haute horlogerie.
Challenge Watch Prize - Otsuka Lotec, No.6
The Otsuka Lotec No.6 is a compelling blend of Japanese craftsmanship and technical innovation, crafted by independent watchmaker Jiro Katayama. Its unique dial, inspired by an analog meter with a Japanese fan shape, features retrograde hour and minute hands superimposed on a single axis, returning in unison at 12:00. Driven by a Miyota movement with an in-house module, it includes a seconds disc and date display, enhancing its retro appeal. Precision is paramount here; the cam for the hour hand is meticulously adjusted to within 0.1 degrees. With detailed beveling on the hands and screw heads, the No.6 embodies a harmonious balance of traditional aesthetics and modern engineering.
Eco-innovation Prize: Chopard, L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier exemplifies Haute Horlogerie and sustainability, being the first L.U.C model crafted in Lucent Steel™—Chopard’s proprietary alloy made from at least 80% recycled steel. Certified by the Fleurier Quality Foundation, this 39mm timepiece features a refined silver-toned sector dial, resized crown, and streamlined lugs. Its L.U.C 96.09-L movement, powered by Chopard Twin technology, ensures chronometer-level precision, durability, and lasting elegance. Chopard’s commitment to eco-conscious luxury shines through its circular manufacturing process, making this timepiece both a celebration of horological mastery and a pioneering step in sustainable watchmaking.
Chronometry Prize - Bernhard Lederer, 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer
The über-German Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer exemplifies the pinnacle of precision, earning certification from three prestigious observatories—Besançon, Glashütte, and Geneva—alongside COSC approval. This feat of horological engineering combines Lederer’s CIC movement with the historic rigor of chronometry, ensuring long-term precision and reliability beyond competitive accuracy standards. The watch’s design honours this pursuit with a remontoire-driven minute hand that moves every 10 seconds, showcased on a scale divided for precise reading. A pure white, hand-finished silver dial, inspired by nautical chronometers, celebrates the art of timekeeping and features the coordinates of the certifying observatories. Housed in Lederer’s Saint-Blaise atelier, this chronometer embodies Swiss and German craftsmanship in every meticulous detail.
Iconic Watch Prize - Piaget, Polo 79
The Piaget Polo 79 revives the iconic style of the 1980s for Piaget’s 150th anniversary, blending vintage flair with modern refinement. This yellow gold, 38mm timepiece mirrors the seamless gadroon and brushed block link pattern of the original, from bracelet to case to dial, creating a cohesive aesthetic that hugs the wrist like a second skin. Departing from the original quartz movement, Piaget has equipped this model with the ultra-thin 1200P1 in-house self-winding calibre, viewable through a crystal case back. With its slim 7.45mm profile and timeless gold finish, the Polo 79 is a luxurious homage to Piaget’s legacy, updated to meet today’s tastes.
Mechanical Exception Watch Prize - Bovet 1822, Récital 28 Prowess 1
The Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1 redefines world timers by addressing the longstanding Daylight Saving Time dilemma, keeping accurate time across global zones regardless of seasonal shifts. Instead of traditional displays, this watch employs 24 city rollers, each with four sides, and a time period roller displaying UTC, AST, EAS, and EWT settings. By pressing the crown’s sapphire cabochon, all rollers rotate to align with the correct time zone, a first in horology. Complementing this innovation are features like a flying tourbillon, roller-based perpetual calendar, and a 10-day power reserve. Meticulously finished and limited to 60 pieces, it’s available in 18K Red Gold, 950 Platinum, and Titanium.
Chronograph Watch Prize - Massena Lab, Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab
The Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena LAB showcases refined chronograph artistry in a limited edition of only 10 pieces. Crafted by hand in Sylvain Pinaud's Swiss atelier, this titanium monopusher chronograph features an integrated, column-wheel chronograph movement visible through a skeletonised dial, along with sapphire side windows and caseback for full visibility. The single pusher, set within the crown, controls start, stop, and reset functions, all powered by a hand-finished movement rooted in Pinaud’s award-winning chronograph design. Paired with an aged calfskin strap by Jean Rousseau, this watch exemplifies artisanal craftsmanship and mechanical elegance.
Men’s Complication Watch Prize - De Bethune, DB Kind of Grand Complication
The De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication is a monumental creation, encapsulating 22 years of technical mastery and innovation in a double-sided, reversible watch. This Grand Complication houses eight horological marvels, including a lightning-fast 36,000 vph tourbillon, a spherical moon-phase, a perpetual calendar, and a jumping seconds mechanism. One side showcases a contemporary design with exposed components and intricate movements, while the other reveals a classically inspired starry sky crafted in De Bethune’s signature blued titanium, complete with a 3D moon-phase display. The complex construction, which includes floating lugs and a unique rotation system, blends aesthetic elegance with extraordinary technical sophistication, embodying De Bethune’s visionary approach to fine watchmaking.
