Somewhere around 3 pm on a Sunday afternoon in Dubai, I found myself drawn back to a place I'd always sneer at as an ex-local: Dubai Mall. Ludicrously big, boisterous, and packed with tourists (from whom I fervently wished to be excluded), it’s where weary ankles and credit card limits go to perish.
This time, however, something was different. It had been quite a while—and quite a few watches later—since I’d last been here. Instead of dismissively glancing at the intimidating displays of Hublot, Blancpain, TAG Heuer, and the like, I found myself bouncing from boutique to boutique. Armed with questions about sales volumes, I delved into the personal preferences of the staff and shamelessly asked to see any one-off rarities hidden from the eyes of window shoppers like myself.
Perched on a second-floor awning, I gazed across untold millions in precious metals, COSC-certified movements, and prime retail space. From this vantage point, I could spot many grail watches on display. But what really caught my eye was the unassuming boutique behind me. Sandwiched between a Claire’s accessories shop and a lesser-known brand selling handmade soaps was a name that drew both curiosity and a certain sense of nostalgia: Daniel Wellington.
Curiosity piqued, I decided to step inside. The store had a ‘special edition’ on display near the cashier. What first caught my eye were pastel green, pink, and blue steel watches that reminded me of the Oris Sixty-Five Cotton Candy releases from 2023—just at about one-tenth the price. According to the sales rep, the Miyota-powered Iconic Link Automatic was the season’s bestseller, though its dated movement left me somewhat skeptical.
I must confess—I’ve never owned a Daniel Wellington watch. But my first watch purchase was indeed a fashion watch—relatively affordable, trend-focused, and not from a major watchmaker. This Skagen SKW6430, now hanging on a deskside hook, often prompted the question at early-twenties house parties: “Is that a Daniel Wellington?” “Who the hell is Daniel Wellington?” I had wondered.
Funnily enough, there’s an invisible thread connecting both brands. Founded by Scandinavians and inspired by Scandinavian simplicity, they share more similarities than one might expect. While I hold the older Skagen models in higher esteem, it’s intriguing to observe how both brands have evolved in the retail market. They’ve carved their own niche, catering to a demographic that values aesthetics over technical prowess, and in doing so, they’ve developed thriving markets. According to Statista, the global fashion watch market was valued at over USD 12 billion in 2022, and brands like Daniel Wellington, Fossil, and Michael Kors have tapped into this lucrative space across sales points ranging from shopping malls to individual boutiques, e-sellers and duty-free booths across the globe.
The Quality Conundrum
While traditional watch enthusiasts, or ‘watch snobs,’ may turn up their noses at fashion watches, these brands cater to a different audience. Fashion watches have their own thriving market that stands apart from the purist’s world of horology. Fossil, for example, has evolved over the years, producing more robust models and even collaborating with Swiss brands. Companies like Emporio Armani and Burberry (both produced by Fossil) can now hold their own against lower-end Swatch pieces. Calvin Klein is literally produced by the Swatch Group, and Gucci’s watches are made by Kering, in Swiss factories no less.
The idea that fashion watches are ‘cheap’ or low-quality is a dated notion. Yes, there’s a marked difference between a Miyota-powered fashion watch and a COSC-certified Swiss timepiece, but brands like Daniel Wellington, Skagen, and Fossil and Armani have embraced their role in offering accessible, design-driven timepieces. For many, these watches serve as an entry point into the world of watch collecting, offering aesthetics and simplicity that appeal to a wide audience.
Meanwhile, traditional brands aren’t immune to quality concerns. Even Seiko, beloved for its reliability, has faced issues with off-centre chapter rings in the SKX007. And Tissot? Misaligned second hands on the popular PRX series have frustrated enthusiasts. The notion of heritage and legacy may draw in watch aficionados, but it’s important to remember that no brand is flawless—especially not in the entry-level price range.
Developing Tastes
Take a stroll on r/Watches, and you’ll find countless posts from first-timers asking, "What should be my first watch?" The typical answer? A Seiko 5, maybe a Citizen or Orient. If you’ve got the budget, a Tissot PRX or Hamilton Khaki. Casio and Timex are always safe bets. But fashion watches rarely get a mention, and if they do, they’re often met with disdain.
Yet fashion watches offer something many purist options don’t: an aesthetic appeal that speaks to personal style. My Skagen, for example, isn’t a perfect watch—its battery life dwindles, the case is scuffed, and the strap has been replaced. But it remains a piece I wear for its sheer wearability, thinness, and simplicity. While more ‘respectable’ options exist, my Skagen’s minimalist design and Euro-chic charm have deeply influenced my taste in watches.
Brands like Fossil have tapped into this demand for design-driven timepieces. Their recent Carraway watches offer a fresh take on the Tank/Reverso/Dolce Vita aesthetic at a fraction of the price. Similarly, Lacoste’s Club line is another example of fashion watches that keep things simple, with playful design touches like colour-tipped indices. These brands understand that not everyone is after high-end horology—sometimes, people just want a watch that looks good and fits their style.
At the end of the day, both fashion watches and traditional watches have their place. Fashion watches appeal to a market driven by aesthetics, affordability, and fun. They offer an accessible entry point for those new to watches and allow seasoned collectors to indulge in playful, design-forward pieces without breaking the bank. Meanwhile, traditional watches carry the weight of history, craftsmanship, and technical achievement.
If a fashion watch speaks to you, don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Whether it’s a Fossil, a Daniel Wellington, or a Gucci, wear what makes you happy. Watches are personal, after all—and fashion? It’s all about self-expression and enjoying the moment.
