There’s a thin line between bravery and foolishness. Jumping out of a plane? Foolish. But with a parachute, it becomes a thrilling adventure. Similarly, embarking on a summer road trip to Spiti showcases bravery. But what about winter? That’s what I, along with 24 other motorcyclists were off to find out at Royal Enfield’s Whiteout 2024. 

Gathering in Shimla, we were filled with a mix of fear and excitement. Fear of the unfamiliar terrain ahead and excitement about riding the new Royal Enfield Himalayan. Fear because most of us had never ridden in this terrain. Excitement for what we were going to be riding. The all-new Royal Enfield Himalayan. I hadn’t seen any of these back in Mumbai and suddenly there were two dozens of them standing tall in the parking lot. 

And with that, we set out for what could be the most challenging seven days of our lives, at the end of which we all hoped to come back with an unforgettable experience. 

Day 1 

Shimla to Badhaal 

Distance: 135 km 

Tarred roads for 99% of the journey so it’s safe to expect an uneventful ride, right? Wrong. 

Less than an hour after we left our hotel, we had our first rendezvous with the infamous black ice. It isn’t actually black, but this transparent, treacherous layer of ice forms on roads, making them incredibly slippery, especially for anyone on two wheels.  

Following Bishnoi, our ride coordinator’s instructions, I experienced firsthand the unpredictability of black ice. My motorcycle’s rear wheel slipped violently, followed by the front wheel. Luckily, long legs saved me on the day. 

One rider from another group, overtaking us confidently, learned the hard way about the dangers of black ice. His motorcycle lost traction, resulting in a humbling fall and then the embarrassment of picking his 250kg+ motorcycle up. Though uninjured, he gained a newfound respect for the challenges of Spiti. We reached Badhaal as temperatures dropped to a chilly 5°C, a mere taste of what lay ahead. 

Day 2 

Badhaal to Tabo 

Distance: 246 km 

A landslide forced us onto a dusty detour, offering unexpected off-road practice. Surprisingly, the road smoothed out near Pooh, providing a brief respite. We climbed up to the Nako helipad for lunch, which introduced us to subzero temperatures for the first time on our journey. 

Parking beside Tabo’s monastery, I felt the biting cold deepen. Lalit Choudhary, a fellow rider, suggested we take a walk around Tabo and explore the region. The walk lasted all of 12 minutes, that’s how tiny the little village was. Nighttime temperatures plummeted to -12°C, and that’s when the conditions really start taking a toll on the human body. Heated mattresses offered little relief against the bone-chilling cold. With frozen water rendering most toilets (three toilets among 30 riders) unusable, the challenges of winter Spiti became starkly apparent. But that’s just what we signed up for and not a soul once complained. 

Day 3 

Tabo to Kaza 

Distance: 50 km 

This leg of our journey promised the shortest ride, allowing us much-needed rest while being mindful of each other’s bathroom duties. As we progressed deeper into Lahaul-Spiti, the roads narrowed and roughened. Having these magnificent white mountains just a stone’s throw away was making it increasingly difficult to concentrate ahead. Approaching Shichiling, we encountered a snowed-out road for the first time on the journey–a precursor to the trials of ice and snow ahead. 

“I’m no novice motorcyclist,” I reminded myself, reflecting on the ride from Bangalore to Mumbai right before this trip, international long-distance touring and adventures over sand dunes in India. Yet, riding on smooth, white ice in Spiti was unlike any previous experience. Ice offers no feedback, no grip for boots. Every maneuver felt like skating on thin ice, a precarious dance where a slight misstep could lead to an icy tumble.

While some riders embraced the challenge, others, like Mandke and Zoheb, navigated snow banks with strategic precision, wringing the throttle on the Himalayan, forcing all 40 Nm of torque to work hard. Snow before it melts behaves a lot like sand. Exhausting? Yes. But also predictable. New day, new lesson learned. 

We made our way to Kaza and stopped for a quick lunch at the homestay before we geared up to go out again. This time, we set out on the highway towards Manali. The road connecting Kaza and Manali remains closed every year until mid-June at Kunzum Pass due to heavy snow. Perfect for us and soon enough we once again hit completely iced-out roads. This was similar to what we experienced back at Shichiling but with the ice harder, colder and more slippery. Once again, long legs saved me but unfortunately not all of us made it past here scratchless. The glistening surface takes no prisoners and punishes motorcyclists for the slightest of jittery movements. 

We made it back to the homestay just before sunset. Doctors attended to bruised bodies and mechanics mended bent motorcycles. As we gathered around the fire, most of us unanimously agreed to one thing - this was one of, if not the toughest things we had ever done. And mind you, these aren’t newbies. This crowd consisted of serious adventurers who do crazy things regularly. 

Day 4 

Kaza - Chicham - Kaza 

Distance: 70 km 

After a restful night, we set out for Chicham, aiming for pure snow. Climbing to higher altitudes, we reached Chicham Bridge, the highest suspension bridge globally at 13,244 ft. Our original plan to ride through snow at Kibber changed due to late winter conditions, requiring us to ascend even higher for snow.

The ascent tested the Himalayan motorcycles to their limits. Negotiating broken roads, gravel, mud, and icy patches, we finally reached the plains at the top, greeted by untouched snow. We could plough through the snow here and even if someone did get ahead of themselves and lost control, their fall would be broken by a fluffy snow mattress. The lack of oxygen made things exhausting but with the amount of adrenaline running through our body, nobody was going to let burnout get in the way.

Here, we plowed through snowdrifts, adrenaline fueling our exhausted bodies. Mandke, Zoheb, and Bishnoi led the charge, their motorcycles kicking up snow dust, a spectacle at the top of the world. Someone once said that boys never actually grow up, their toys just get bigger and more expensive, and they were bloody right. 

We made it back to the homestay in Kaza before sunset with renewed confidence. Many odds were against us but we powered through together as a team. At night, temperatures dropped like never before with some of us seeing - 22°C on our Garmins. But even this couldn’t put out the fresh fire ignited in us. 

Day 6 & 7 

Kaza - Kalpa - Shimla 

Distance: 240 km 

Our return journey included detours to Key Monastery, Kalpa, and Gue, each adding layers to our adventure. Negotiating black ice and unpredictable terrain, we finally arrived back in Shimla, exhausted but exhilarated. Covered in sweat and mud, we exchanged embraces like long-lost friends, united by our shared ordeal. The people you meet on motorcycles really are the best people. 

Winter Spiti off the list. Was it easy? Hell, no. There were falls aplenty. Some motorcycles needed to be towed. There were broken bones too. But we were all back safe, after venturing out on some of the world’s most unforgiving roads. 

What’s life at - 20°C like, you ask? 

Winter in Spiti isn’t just an adventure; it’s a test of endurance. Hydration becomes a challenge as water freezes in bottles. Food cools rapidly in the frigid air, while frozen water in bathrooms turns simple tasks into hazardous feats. Brushing teeth or answering nature’s call requires braving the biting cold, a stark reminder of nature’s unforgiving grip. 

Winter Spiti isn’t for the faint-hearted. It demands preparation, resilience, and camaraderie. Royal Enfield Rides with their military level of preparation made this trip significantly more hospitable and I’d recommend going with them, at least for the first time. For those seeking such an adventure without an operator, I recommend partnering with experienced guides. Solo expeditions should be approached cautiously, with thorough preparation and a keen eye for safety. 

Returning from Winter Spiti, we weren’t just adventurers; we were storytellers. Our journey, a testament to the fine line between bravery and foolishness, will echo in our memories and conversations for years to come.